Mini Tub Install by Clayton Doane

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Things to consider before you do mini-tubs
1. Can you run them in the class you wish to race in
2. Can you do the work yourself or are you going to have them installed
3. Is the cost worth the benefit for you
4. Do you really need to mini-tub
5. Is the rest of your suspension done if not finish it first
6. Who’s mini-tub kit will you use

I made the choice to do the mini tubs while I was stationed in Germany because the tracks in this country are really bad and anything to help me put power to the ground was a must. I had already put a complete Team Z rear suspension in my car and was only getting 1.56 60’ times with Mickey Thompson Sportsman Pro’s. I wanted more. So I made up my mind I called Dave at Team Z Motorsports and we talked for a while he explained everything I would need and we placed the order (THANKS FOR THE HELP DAVE) Well Dave sent me out the kit and accommodated my special request of sending everything to me US mail and I know the post office is a huge PITA kudos to Team Z

This is the first time I have ever done a Mini-Tub install and it was not that bad. It is by no means something for a beginner to tackle but if you can weld and have access to the tools needed go for it. If you choose to do it take your time and seek advice if you are unsure of something.

Let’s start off with the tools I used to complete the Mini-Tub install and what would have made things less painful for me.

Tools used;
Plasma cutter
Grinder with cut off wheels
Mig welder
Hack saw
Big hammer
Cutting torch
Air chisel
Air hammer
Tin snips

Tools I wish I had:
Sawzall
A plasma cutter that worked
Some stiff wire brush wheels for the grinder
More time as I was kind of pressed for time

Now let’s get started on the install. First thing you need to do is completely strip the trunk and rear seat area because you will be cutting and welding and you don’t want to catch the car on fire while your trying to make it better.

Before you start cutting anything take ten minutes and make sure you have all the parts needed for the install.

Ok let’s get going I chose to start on the passenger side of the car. I split the stock fender well right down the seem with an air chisel but think that a sawzall would have made this easier than the way I did it but maybe not. Then I cut along the frame rail and thought that it would drop out wrong. Next you need to go in with the air chisel and break all the spot welds on the frame rail. Make sure you don’t forget all the cussin in there to it helps at least it made me feel a little better.

OK now that you have a gapping hole where the inner fender once was you need to make another decision. Are you going to notch the frame rails or not? If you do you gain about 2inches of room. At first I was not going to but I am glad I did it as now I run a 29X13.5 tire all tucked up under the car.

When you notch the frame rails you will cut the rail at the back edge of the of the opening from the outer edge all the way to the inner side of the frame rail, then kind of draw a straight line from the inner edge of the frame to the outer edge right over the top of the center of the axle. Now take this piece you just cut out and move it to the inside and weld it in where the frame rail has been cut so to make up for the part you cut off the outside of the frame. Or use something to build up the frame on the inside where you cut the piece out of the frame.

Now you can assemble the min-tubs and start test fitting them in. The Team Z kit fits nice and has a little extra that will need to be trimmed off the bottom. I got mine all set up in place and tacked them in place then cut them along the bottom of the frame rail. Once this was done I finished up welding them up and the sprayed them with black rubberized paint. I actually used Grip Guard to paint them. First side done now that you got through that the other side will take about ¼ of the time to complete. I was very cautious doing the first side cutting a little at a time then with the other side I cut it all out in one shot and had the tub up in and finished in no time. To put it in perspective it took me a full day to do the first one and about two hours to do the other one.

I also chose to narrow my rear end too. I called Dave at Team Z again and he told me the best thing to do would be to take 2.5” off each side and while your there put the 9” ends on the too. So we got everything from Dave to do the rear up right I got 35 spline Strange axles and matching spool, strange single adjustable coil over’s.

Now that it was all done we started playing with wheels and back spacing I call Bogart and ordered up a set of 15X12 rears with a 6” backspace. With these wheels I ran a set of 325/50/15 Mickey Thompson Drag Radials. With this wheel tire combo and the narrowed rear the tire came to the outer edge of the fender they did not stick out but I had another 1 ½” that was unused on the inside of the fender wells. So I sold my Bogarts and called HoleShot Wheels and ordered a set of 15X11 wheels with a 6 ½” backspace. I also found out that the Holeshot Wheels are made a little different as they use a 4” outer shell where as Bogart used a 5 ½” outer shell. So this alone pulled the tire farther in then with the ½” additional backspace too I now run a 29X13.50 Hoosier Quick Time Pro and they are Tucked in the fender not deep but they are clean up under there and I am a happy camper.