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November 20, 2009, 03:31:08 PM

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 1 
 on: Today at 03:30:18 PM 
Started by Speedfreak27 - Last post by 85fox
Sound great man! Cant wait to see some video of the car driving. Hey where did you get those breathers from? Do you happen to know what size hole it goes into also?

Pete

 2 
 on: Today at 03:27:40 PM 
Started by xlr8a4d - Last post by Litemup86
What happened to everyone we had posting??  Everyone puttin' the cars on the back burner through the holidays??  I only ask again because I don't know where else to..

Does anybody have an extra set of oil return lines that run from the bottom of the turbo to the pan?  Mine have been pretty abused.  If not, does anyone know a place I can send them to and have another set duplicated or have any other idea how I can replace them?

Also, is anyone interested in trading a set of SN-95 air intake tubes (from air filter to turbo) for a set for a Fox Body?  Or does anyone have a set of Fox tubes for sale?  My kit was originally for a SN-95, but I have them squeezed onto my Fox and they hit the sway bar mounts on the frame.

 3 
 on: Today at 03:24:00 PM 
Started by Speedfreak27 - Last post by domn8rx
Sounds good Cry

john

 4 
 on: Today at 03:14:58 PM 
Started by t.bourns - Last post by t.bourns
STFU, everyone on this board knew what I was talking about.....

 5 
 on: Today at 03:10:16 PM 
Started by jtcstrat - Last post by jtcstrat
FRPP HiVol Oil Pump - Moroso Pan - i run 7 1/2 qts of oil



what pan exactly and did you modify your pickup tube?

 6 
 on: Today at 03:04:10 PM 
Started by turbo94gt - Last post by aod92
I had the same exact problems as turbo94gt when I had a 38mm gate. First I had a Turbonetics Evolution, and then I tried Brians BG CUSTOM TURBO 38mm gate and I still had the same problems. I put on a XO2 60mm and now it holds steady at 13lbs. on the WG spring.

 7 
 on: Today at 02:48:25 PM 
Started by slowboat - Last post by slowboat
That's one thing I did not check. Thanks for posting. Might help explain why it cleans up with the lights on.

 8 
 on: Today at 02:46:20 PM 
Started by Derek@BPP - Last post by livefast1
damn man why couldn't i live in kentucky lol free bump

 9 
 on: Today at 02:42:22 PM 
Started by livefast1 - Last post by craigs
Yes more information would help. What material thickness are you welding. What amps. Your gas is too high. Bring it down to about 12 CFM. Pics would also help. They key to aliuminum is clean. Dedicated stainless toothbrush type. Then follow up with acetone. The other keys to alum. are fast and hot. If you are slow you will overheat the aluminum and cause that grainy looking weld. I like to get a puddle in less than 3 seconds when I hit the pedal and then move swiftly while dipping.
T.J.



Im going to disagree with your technique here. When you form a puddle really fast, you are applying a lot of heat to a concentrated area of your work piece. As you move forward you will have to adjust your amperage (Down) due to the heat traveling through the material. For beginer to moderate welders, this can be a difficult process to master.
I prefer to start my arc with low amps and let the heat travel throughout the work piece creating even heat before forming my puddle. This will allow me to keep a constant weld bead and not having to adjust my heat up or down. This is more difficult with thicker materials, but then pre heating is another option


 10 
 on: Today at 02:40:36 PM 
Started by BoostedGT - Last post by jason07
That's not his car because it has a lexan window. I'm sure he doesn't want the secret out yet.

Uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh   I was kidding.  I have been around his car plenty of times, including a 2000 mile trip to Chicago!

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