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Topic: 1967 Mustang Coupe 351w Single t-70 Now with S475 (Read 8021 times)
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brianj5600
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I started long ago. I have had 2 kids since the project started, which does nothing to speed things along. The car was originally a 6 cylinder and bone stock. I have redone the suspension, brakes, engine, transmission, fuel system, and rear end. All was done in my garage except the machine work. Now it is time for a turbo. I have no experience with header fab, so it is not going as fast as some builds here and won't be nearly as pretty as some. The engine/car combo does not leave a lot of room for headers. I have learned on the first side and hope the other goes a little faster. The engine is a 351w with SRP -27cc pistons, AFR185's, hyd flat tappet, TorkerII intake and Proform double pumper. The turbo is an MPT-70 for now with an EV hat, Tial WG and BOV. The fuel system is a sumped tank, A1000 pump, 13204 regulator with -8 feed and return. The trans is a homebuilt C5 with 5 reds in the forward, 6 reds in the direct and a RMVB. The rear end is a 95 GT 8.8 with a 3.08 gear converted for leaf springs.   
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« Last Edit: October 26, 2009, 06:56:11 PM by brianj5600 »
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brianj5600
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Location: Middle TN.
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« Last Edit: March 29, 2009, 08:48:52 PM by brianj5600 »
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xlr8a4d
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Location: Va
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Cool !
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92' LX coupe -Project Incon-Member of jackstand racing club 83' widebody GT-Project old school 88' Eddie Bauer BroncoII-EFI 5.0/AOD transplant 89'CRX si-daily driver-bone stock and staying that way
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quick1320
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Location: ft lauderdale fl
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nice looking build
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CarNDrvr
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Location: Anna, TX
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Nice...I love the old cars with modern technology.
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racesloth
My car has a birthday.
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Location: Augusta, GA
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subscribing... 
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10secgoal
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Looks great man. Hardest part is done.
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brianj5600
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I got the passenger side mocked up today. It was 10x easier. There was a little more room and the collector is inline with the motor. The other had to kick out about 30 degrees or it went right into the radiator outlet. Plus I had one header under my belt. Now to cut them both apart and weld them up. The drivers side is super tight. I hope it fits after finish welding.  
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« Last Edit: September 23, 2009, 07:00:24 PM by brianj5600 »
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denmah
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nice, the car looks great!
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00GT stock daily driver 13.26 @ 102, 1.75 60ft. 230hp SOHC BEAST
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DannyS
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Location: Fairhaven, Ma
whistling throttle, no bottle
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hey alright, im a big fan of the vintage stangs!
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whistling throttle, no bottle
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brianj5600
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I got a little more done on the car. The drivers side header is finished and the turbo is in place. The passenger side header is partly welded and I hope to finish it in the next couple days and start the crossover. The plan for the crossover and downpipe is ambitious. I plan on running the crossover between the core support and the swaybar. When it gets to the other side it will curve up and toward the rear just a bit to clear the radiator outlet and then turn forward and up to join the drivers side. The DP will 90 right out of the turbo and go down in front of the cylinderhead and split into two 2.5" pipes. One pipe will turn straight back and the other will pass in front of the motor and then turn back on the other side of the motor. I still have a little trimming to do to get the compressor cover to fit. I am not sure it will all work, but that is the plan.
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davidjalb
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Location: Medford, NY
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Wow im not familiar with the engine bays of the older stangs but compared to a fox that looks mighty tight in there. Not much room between the engine and the shock towers.
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347-R, Vc. Jr., DFI, T400, 76mm single in my beloved 93 black notch-a proud member of the lifetime jackstand club 87 Hatch FB AOD-E 2 stages of the good stuff 04 GTO
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Throttle
RIMMED for her PLEASURE!!
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Wow im not familiar with the engine bays of the older stangs but compared to a fox that looks mighty tight in there. Not much room between the engine and the shock towers.
Yeah, they are super tight under there.. I just sold a 1969 428 Cobra Jet Mustang that the owner was sick of trying to change plugs on.. 
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Mike- 1972 Camaro- under the knife 2000 GMC Sierra - Daily Driver 2007 GSXR 750 - Fast as PISS 1962 C-10 - 430hp 283ci
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brianj5600
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There is enough room to run two 1.625" tubes side by side and that is about it. There may be .25" left to split between the motor and the shock tower. There is little room for error. I would like to building it with an S475, but that may be tough for a first time fabber. I think it would fit OK. The hard part would be where to run a decent size DP.
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boostedtorino
aahhhhh hell lol
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holly crap I wish I had seen this when i started lookin at tryin to do my headers this changes everything I was lookin at tryin on my 69torino ....those headers look great man ..... how hard has it been to fit everything???? got any tips lol??
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WANA RUN BOOST !!!! lol
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brianj5600
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It is not easy, but I had never built headers or even done exhaust work. I know now why prices for this stuff are where they are. I have over $200 in materials in my headers and a lot of hours. They are not as nice as what I could have bought, but I wanted the satisfaction of doing it myself. If you don't have a lot of patience, buy them! I am not sure the satisfaction is worth all the work. I got a little help here http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=82845.0 but there are no pictures of the headers off the car. I ordered some stuff from Brian at BG CUSTOM TURBO and he recommended 1D bends, 1.625" radius. I think he may have even said it won't work w/o that tight of bend. The closest I could find was these http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PTE%2DH7019&N=700+4294923429+4294820497+4294748489+4294787514+4294864577+4294781314+4294864597+115&autoview=sku They have a 2" radius. 5 of these would be the minimum to make headers. I bought flanges, collectors and V-bands from BG CUSTOM TURBO. The head flanges are listed for 1.625" tube and oval ports. They were far cheaper than anyone else's but the openings were too big for 1.625" tubing. I use a measuring tape like a tailor would use to measure how far it was around the opening and compared it to the circumference of the 1.625" tubes I had and there was about a .25" difference. After some head scratching I cut eight 1.5" long peices of tubing and had the muffler shop down the street expand one end of them slightly to the same circumference as the flange. They were easy to shape by putting them in a vise and sqeezing one end of them down to the right width to fit the flange. I put a socket in the nonexpanded end to keep it round when sqeezing them in a vise. With out expanding them there were large air gaps at the top and bottom. Another problem I had was if I tried to squish the tubing in the middle of a bend, it would not come out oval shaped. When the j-bends are made the metal on the outer part of the bend gets stretched and the inner part is shrunk. This makes the metal thickness different so one side flattens out and the other, not so much. The collectors work OK. I have seen some that are a little more compact, which helps. Another thing is don't buy a T4 flange with a round center opening. When laid flat on a T4 housing there is a big mismatch. There is a fairly big area at the top and bottom that you can see the flat part of the gasket surface of the housing. It is more trouble to use a rectangular cut out, but there will be less restriction between the turbo and the flange. The tools I used were a sawsall, grinder and mig welder. If you have a bandsaw it would help a ton.
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boostedtorino
aahhhhh hell lol
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cool I will def keep that in ind ... you dont mind if I have any trouble in pming you do ya lol??? bein as youve alreadt started on yours ... cuz I run into a snag I may need a lil input lol
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WANA RUN BOOST !!!! lol
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10secgoal
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It is not easy, but I had never built headers or even done exhaust work. I know now why prices for this stuff are where they are. I have over $200 in materials in my headers and a lot of hours.
I'm glad somebody said it. I get PM's and emails all the time and I really think they expect to pay 200 bucks for headers like they are 18 guage cheapies migged on a machine. With the tubing going into a flange at a bend, now you know my heart ache on 65 headers. Each tube is like that. there is no other way. There is no room for it, I have to cheat them a little even to get them in. You headers look damn good though. (good eye on the circle T-4 flange)
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« Last Edit: May 03, 2008, 04:33:12 PM by 10secgoal »
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boostedtorino
aahhhhh hell lol
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hey 10sec...... what gauge material do you recomend for my headers????
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WANA RUN BOOST !!!! lol
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99TTGT
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nice headers man!  
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babysitting turboland...
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10secgoal
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hey 10sec...... what gauge material do you recomend for my headers????
16g  . Be just fine.
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brianj5600
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Thanks for all the compliments. I am trying to not show my welds up close. I went to the Dirt Dobber School of Welding.
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99TTGT
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babysitting turboland...
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boostedtorino
aahhhhh hell lol
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Location: mannford oklahoma
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youre still doin a bang up job man ... only way to get any better is to jump in and do it and practice along the way 
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WANA RUN BOOST !!!! lol
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wannabe
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Good job Brian I am in the same boat Building my 68 coupe with a 331 and single turbo I chopped up my hooker long tubes and I half way on the drivers side I need my turbo to place the collector But maybe you can tell the dimensions of your mp70. I need to know how wide it is from turbine outlet to compessor inlet Thanks bro pics soon
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"qoute" Boost is like crack u always want more
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