Suggestions For Better 60ft?

[14chp2c]

I wondering on what to do to get a better 60ft in my 88 Mustang Coupe? I am leaving on transbrake at 4300 with full boost of 14lbs, 28" Hoosier slicks with 10psi of air, C4 with 4500 stall, 3:55 gears, Spool, Wolfe Anti Roll Bar, Wolfe Upper & lower rear control arms,  Lakewood 90/10s & 50/50s, stock V8 rear springs,  cut  Moroso Drag Springs, stock K-member, this is the best 60ft and 1/8 mile I have done:


60ft 1.436
1/8 6.362 @ 107.528 MPH

[SHOWTIME!!]

Tubular A arms and K member, front coilovers with 150lbs springs, then rear coilovers. A freind of mine shaved off .15 off his 60ft by just going with this stuff in his 2003 cobra convertible.

[14chp2c]

My buddy is making the same power and same car as me but I am 300lbs lighter than him, he has a tubular K-member, coil overs, strange struts & shocks but has baseline upper control arms as getting the same 60ft as me, so there is got to be something else

[SHOWTIME!!]

Well think about what you just said. He is 300lbs heavier than you are, and cutting the same 60ft times as you. He has the tubular front end with coilovers and you don't. See what I'm saying? That right there proves the stuff works when he is 300lbs heavier than you and still cutting the same 60ft times. The theory is, every 100 pounds equals 1/10th of a second on the big end. And every 1/10th on your 60ft you shave off is 2/10th on the big end. Your buddy weighs 300lbs more than you so you would have a .3 advantage over him on the big end. Well if you break that down from ET to 60ft time, that would be you should have a .150 better 60ft than him. Remember what my buddies 2003 convertible cobra shaved off his 60ft time? It was .150, so with your freind having the tubular stuff in his, he pretty much cancelled out that extra 300lbs. Of course ALL of this is in mathematical theory. But does that make sence at all? I can be kind of confusing when trying to explain my mathematics in text because I do it in my head and every now and then I confuse myself.

I hope I'm not sounding rude in any of this, I'm just trying to explain to you that if you look at the numbers, you need the tubular stuff. And also with him running stock upper and lower control arms and you running Wolfe upper and lowers and him cutting the same tomes as you even further in the math numbers proves you need the tubular stuff.

Like I said, I'm not trying to be a dick, just trying to help out a fellow mustang racer. 

[SHOWTIME!!]

Ok I got to thinking of a few more things. First, is the car dead hooking? Or is it spinning a little bit? If it is dead hooking then it's not in the suspension, you would be losing time somewhere in the drivetrain. Maybe the converter is to loose? If it's spinning then it's forsure in the suspension. Also, proboly a dumb question but does the car have a cage and or subframe connectors? If it is spinning have you tried different pinion angles? What kind of engine set up are you running? 

[14chp2c]

Well I understand what you are saying and I dont think you sound like a dick but my  Buddy has Baseline upper control arms and Wolfe lowers, I wanted to see what I could do with a stock K-member before changing to a Tubular K-member. I have seen  a stock K-member Mustang get a 1.28 60ft and run a 8.50 1/4. It seems to hook but doesnt lift the front up much, but when I was footbraking alittle off idle I could get the front end up about a foot but the 60ft sucked 1.7. Yes I have a 10pt cage and subframes and the floor was reinforced all done at Wolfe. I tried leaving at 4500 on the transbrake but it would spin a little after the 60ft, I am running a 306, stock cam, TFS Twisted Wedge heads, Hogan Box intake and a MP T70. I havent touched the pinion angle since Wolfe adjusted it, but I am thinking on trying some stick side wall Mickey Thompson first then maybe some  double adjustable Afco rear shocks and Strange double adjustable struts before I would do the K-member.

[blown385]

I improved my 60' by .10 with just a spring adjustment and tire pressure . 

To low tire pressure and soft shocks would shock the tires and waste forward energy .

It would dead hook at 14psi in the tires , but it would also hook at 16psi .   Less wrinkle in the tires = better 60'  .

[14chp2c]

I tried 14psi  and 16psi  of air, didnt see to work for me, I guess I am old school with 10psi of air in the slicks.

[14chp2c]

Here is a link with a pic of the 79 Capri/Mustang using a stock K-member with a 1.28 60ft and 8.50 1/4.

http://sacramentoraceway.com/

[SHOWTIME!!]

So if you leave a 4500 it will spin after the 60ft mark, well what 60ft times is it pulling leaving at 4500?And if you leave on the footbrake slightly above idle it will bring the front end up and not spin, it just won't cut any 60ft times? What gear is in the car? Did u say it has stock v rear springs?

[14chp2c]

It would spin leaving at 4500 and cut a 1.46 60ft which I didnt think was bad, I couldnt tell it was spinning, just my buddies at the line told me it was spinning. Yes it didnt spin with foot braking it and did some 1.7s and a 2.0 60ft, and it lifted both wheels off the ground about a foot, even lifted shifting into 2nd gear, I was told I was hopping it. It has 3:55 gears, stock V8 rear springs and cut Moroso front springs.


Was foot braking, Transbrake button was bad and wasnt working

First Pass

60ft 2.0
1/8  7.15 @108.23 MPH
1/4 10.80 @135.37 MPH


Second Pass

60ft 1.71
1/8  6.95 @101.25 MPH
1/4 10.74 @135.18 MPH

Third Pass

60ft 1.70
1/8  6.83 @107.69 MPH
1/4 10.48 @137.86 MPH

Well, I fixed the transbrake   and I played with the two step, first time left at 3700 rpm, second time 4300 rpm and the last time left at 4500 rpm

First Pass

60ft 1.454
1/8 6.433 @ 108.073 MPH
1/4 10.106 @ 136.754 MPH

Second Pass

60ft 1.436
1/8 6.362 @ 107.528 MPH
1/4 10.017 @ 132.955 MPH-  I let off when I saw the shift light come on in 3rd gear, stupid mistake

Third Pass

60ft 1.461
1/8 6.402 @ 110.617 MPH
1/4 10.000 @ 138.984 MPH

[john@dyno]

throw away those 50/50 rear shocks.........try a strange on a softer setting...#2-3
find a set of lca brackets that drop the rear points down lower (about 2") and run STOCK rear ride height......

I went through this this same thing last year....now it hooks to a 1.37 on a car that runs 6.62 1/8 at FULL WEIGHT and stock front K...

[14chp2c]

That is what I was thinking of getting rid of the Lakewoods and go with AFCO double adjustable rear shocks, I just wanted to hear it from someone else before I go out and spend $600 on rear shocks.

[TeamZmotorsports]

That is what I was thinking of getting rid of the Lakewoods and go with AFCO double adjustable rear shocks, I just wanted to hear it from someone else before I go out and spend $600 on rear shocks.

 you dont need $600 shocks

[14chp2c]

So what do you recommend to get me in the 1.3xs?

[bgjohnson]

Your still carrying more weight up front by using a stock Kmember. I bet money it would lower your 60ft times by taking 30-60lbs off the front end.

[14chp2c]

I really dont want to put a K-member in it, I just want to try a stiff sidewall Mickey Thompson  and better shocks & struts first before I think about a K-member. The Coupe is already running better than I thought it would, I could just leave it as it is and be happy. I am just trying to keep the work on it simple so I can finish my other Mustang.

[bgjohnson]

Understandable, it's your money.

[Tims86-9.80]

http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/index.html   check out page 120

10 way adjustable for 69.50 each.   As suggested not $600.00 Shocks.

[TeamZmotorsports]

http://www.hardcore50.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=51016

 A good read pay attention to post #41

[14chp2c]

I was thinking on going with double adjustable AFCO shocks and double adjustable Strange struts.

[14chp2c]

TeamZmotorsports,  It looks like you found a good combo with springs,and shocks & strust valving combo. I think my springs are working just fine maybe change to a stiff rear spring and have adjustable shocks & struts do the rest. There is only so much energy stored in a spring, so the struts and shocks would have to take over.

[LowBoostinT76]

You don't want a stiff rear spring, at least with coilovers.  You want a soft rear spring for exactly the reason you said, to let the adjustable shock do its job.

[trueblue02]

I think the front suspension will help i'm fightin my buddy on this issue right now. he has a 408 high comp glide 456 gear and spray and it will only cut 145 60s. its all stock in the front and the rear has all after market goods. well see next year though cause i got him talked in to upgrading i belive