Knowledge Base | Turbo Kits | Featured Cars | More Info | Multimedia | Links | Project Cars | Store

Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
September 02, 2010, 08:13:40 PM

Login with username, password and session length
 
If you need any parts or service start here: Sponsors List. > > Order TheTurboForums.com Stuff
1179709 Posts in 106918 Topics by 24902 Members
Latest Member: newnamwuy
* Home Help Rules Search Calendar Login Register
TheTurboForums  |  Specific Tech Sections  |  DIY and Junkyard Turbo Tech  |  Topic: Welding STICKY « previous next »
Pages: 1 ... 12 13 [14] 15 16 Go Down Print
Author Topic: Welding STICKY  (Read 49224 times)
66Coupe352
Non Seller

Offline Offline

Posts: 13

Location:

View Profile
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #325 on: July 11, 2008, 01:06:15 PM »

Anyone? huh
Logged
Supe
The Great 400 Block Cracker
After Dark
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 627


Location: Shelby, NC

View Profile WWW
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #326 on: July 13, 2008, 08:00:21 AM »

Anyone? huh

185 amps is PLENTY of output for just about anything you could possibly need to weld on a racecar.  For exhaust, headers, etc, you won't even come close to the output of that machine.
Logged
66Coupe352
Non Seller

Offline Offline

Posts: 13

Location:

View Profile
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #327 on: July 14, 2008, 08:47:10 PM »

Good stuff. Should be here next monday!
Next up is a tubing bender...or I may just use my friends one haha.
Logged
MSM69Z28
Classified Viewers
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 400

Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
0


View Profile WWW
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #328 on: August 28, 2008, 03:03:25 PM »

no expert by any means.  i would say I am decent with mild steel TIG and MIG.  Not as pretty as those stainless headers, NLR-Power and Control, but gettin' there.

i am playing with aluminum now.  in my opinion, aluminum can be easier in many ways if its very clean and your settings are just right, otherwise, it is not forgiving and really comes out like crap.  Mild especially, but stainless as well, are much more forgiving, but aluminum can really lay down the dimes when all go right. 

pic of first time practices:


after some more practice:




Thanks,

Michael
Logged

www.BoostedHorsepower.com
______________________________________________
1993 Ford Mustang Cobra
Twin Turbo GT500 5.4L
Art Morrison Custom IFS
345/30/18s
turbo cat
If it aint broke I'll probally break it
Classified Viewers
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 623


Location: city of rain washington
Professional hack jobber


View Profile
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #329 on: September 03, 2008, 06:01:45 PM »

welding with socks and sandals?  Grin This is some good info as Im going to start practicing some TIG soon
Logged

84 C20 6.2 twin turbo diesel
95 cougar 01 PI Quad Turbocharged 4.6L in the works
95 cougar single turbo 4.6L
91 exploder turbo sport pos
MSM69Z28
Classified Viewers
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 400

Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
0


View Profile WWW
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #330 on: September 04, 2008, 06:18:36 AM »

lol.  yea, i saw that in the picture after I posted it, and was waiting for someone to say something.  first, socks with sandals is gay, in my opinion, so it is embarrassing as it is.  it went down like this.  After I got done welding, I went in the house to do some flat bench reps with 400lbs and then quench my thirst with a jack daniels straight up, and just had a lapse in judgement when i slid some sandals on to walk out to take a quick pic.  make no mistake about it, i am a 6' foot man whore that nails a new chic every night.  anyone believe me?   Two Thumbs Up!
Logged

www.BoostedHorsepower.com
______________________________________________
1993 Ford Mustang Cobra
Twin Turbo GT500 5.4L
Art Morrison Custom IFS
345/30/18s
mootang
After Dark
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 429


Location: Texas

View Profile WWW
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #331 on: September 08, 2008, 10:19:02 PM »

lol.  yea, i saw that in the picture after I posted it, and was waiting for someone to say something.  first, socks with sandals is gay, in my opinion, so it is embarrassing as it is.  it went down like this.  After I got done welding, I went in the house to do some flat bench reps with 400lbs and then quench my thirst with a jack daniels straight up, and just had a lapse in judgement when i slid some sandals on to walk out to take a quick pic.  make no mistake about it, i am a 6' foot man whore that nails a new chic every night.  anyone believe me?   Two Thumbs Up!

LOL
Logged

08' Trailblazer SS
Turbo SN95 in the works..........

My build up
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=80694.0
turbo cat
If it aint broke I'll probally break it
Classified Viewers
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 623


Location: city of rain washington
Professional hack jobber


View Profile
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #332 on: September 09, 2008, 08:31:58 PM »

Im not buying it  homos
Logged

84 C20 6.2 twin turbo diesel
95 cougar 01 PI Quad Turbocharged 4.6L in the works
95 cougar single turbo 4.6L
91 exploder turbo sport pos
tricked-out-toy
Boost Junkie
Classified Viewers
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 198


Location: Nashville TN

View Profile WWW
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #333 on: September 26, 2008, 12:30:40 PM »

Ive read through the sticky a couple times over the past 6 months or so and Id like to see some more info on mig welding aluminum. I have a Lincoln 180 with a spool gun and I tried just about everything to get it lay a decent bead. Am I doing something wrong? i tried to weld it like I would steel. sometimes ill run a bead with circle or even a weave but if I tried to do anything other than drag the puddle it would blow through the aluminum. I guess the question is when welding aluminum does it "sound" the same as steel" I can get a decent bead by using the lowest head and pretty much letting ball forum up on the end of the rud untill enough heat gets into the aluminum to puddle up. once it puddles up it pull s the ball on the end of the wire in and it starts to lay up. the probelm is it "sounds" like total shit.... im kinda at a loss.... I was hoping to be able to weld my charge piping together...
Logged

1991 Z28
LT1 swap, LE3 heads. Log build with a TC-78.
Still working on the details!
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/91-Camaro-wasting-some_110880.htm
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2108104
cammerfe
Non Seller

Offline Offline

Posts: 84

Location:

View Profile
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #334 on: October 23, 2008, 09:55:02 PM »

Does anyone care to make a comment regarding the use of a sewing machine foot pedal to vary power going into a Harbor Freight TIG? I raised the question back in mid-summer, since it was barely suggested in one of the posts, but have had no comment. Thanks for your time!
KS
Logged
Boomslang
Non Seller

Offline Offline

Posts: 9

Location:

View Profile
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #335 on: January 14, 2009, 05:11:57 PM »

Ive read through the sticky a couple times over the past 6 months or so and Id like to see some more info on mig welding aluminum. I have a Lincoln 180 with a spool gun and I tried just about everything to get it lay a decent bead. Am I doing something wrong? i tried to weld it like I would steel. sometimes ill run a bead with circle or even a weave but if I tried to do anything other than drag the puddle it would blow through the aluminum. I guess the question is when welding aluminum does it "sound" the same as steel" I can get a decent bead by using the lowest head and pretty much letting ball forum up on the end of the rud untill enough heat gets into the aluminum to puddle up. once it puddles up it pull s the ball on the end of the wire in and it starts to lay up. the probelm is it "sounds" like total shit.... im kinda at a loss.... I was hoping to be able to weld my charge piping together...

No you won't be getting the "sizzling bacon" sound like steel. You could check out www.weldingweb.com for some info. I mostly tig but I've used the spool gun on Aluminum before. It'll take some practice before you get used to it but get ready to move once you get your puddle.
Logged
gtrpwr
Guest
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #336 on: February 07, 2009, 02:38:08 PM »

Does anyone care to make a comment regarding the use of a sewing machine foot pedal to vary power going into a Harbor Freight TIG? I raised the question back in mid-summer, since it was barely suggested in one of the posts, but have had no comment. Thanks for your time!
KS

The foot pedal for amp control can be of great use if you get used to it.  You can form a puddle way quicker and tailing out is also easier.  But by no means is it necessary.
If you want to try it out by all means go for it, most people tig weld with a pedal because it gives you on the fly amp control so you can burn out tacks with ease etc.  It would take a bit of time to get your welds looking as consistent as if you ran just straight amps though.
Logged
Ironworker
Doh!
Classified Viewers
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 214


Location: Greenwood ,AR

View Profile
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #337 on: March 31, 2009, 08:22:32 PM »

if at all possible if you will tack it together where you will start and finish your weld makes it a lot easier to look continuous
Logged
Ironworker
Doh!
Classified Viewers
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 214


Location: Greenwood ,AR

View Profile
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #338 on: March 31, 2009, 08:24:17 PM »

yeah ok never mind that was for a few pages back or well alot of pages back
Logged
cammerfe
Non Seller

Offline Offline

Posts: 84

Location:

View Profile
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #339 on: April 03, 2009, 02:27:00 PM »

The foot pedal for amp control can be of great use if you get used to it.  You can form a puddle way quicker and tailing out is also easier.  But by no means is it necessary.
If you want to try it out by all means go for it, most people tig weld with a pedal because it gives you on the fly amp control so you can burn out tacks with ease etc.  It would take a bit of time to get your welds looking as consistent as if you ran just straight amps though.

Thanks much!!!
KS
Logged
MEAN_SBC
As seen on TV
Classified Viewers
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 878


Location: Amarillo Texas
Five Dollar FootLong


View Profile WWW
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #340 on: April 30, 2009, 08:44:25 PM »

I haven't ever tigged much, but if you are welding 304SS header tubing together, and your joints are perfect, do you have to use filler rod????
Logged

Brant Campbell
Click PT114 BBC BUILD
Click PT101 SBC BUILD
Mac93
Non Seller

Offline Offline

Posts: 5

Location:

View Profile
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #341 on: May 01, 2009, 01:03:48 AM »

Mig welding aluminum  welder I have a Lincoln 175 MIG and I wanted to try some aluminum stuff with it. I know what I need to do it but my question is how does it come out looking compared to the perfect looking TIG?
Logged
Ssmonte408
Classified Viewers
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 572


Location: Otisville, Michigan

View Profile
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #342 on: May 01, 2009, 03:56:25 AM »

If you have it set up right and weave it, it can turn out nice.  You won't be able to get it as small as a tig but it can look very good.   Edit:  This isn't stacked tacks, it is a continueous(sp) weld.
« Last Edit: May 03, 2009, 05:22:21 AM by Ssmonte408 » Logged
MEAN_SBC
As seen on TV
Classified Viewers
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 878


Location: Amarillo Texas
Five Dollar FootLong


View Profile WWW
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #343 on: May 06, 2009, 08:41:07 AM »

I haven't ever tigged much, but if you are welding 304SS header tubing together, and your joints are perfect, do you have to use filler rod????

Well?? lol 
Logged

Brant Campbell
Click PT114 BBC BUILD
Click PT101 SBC BUILD
Ssmonte408
Classified Viewers
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 572


Location: Otisville, Michigan

View Profile
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #344 on: May 06, 2009, 02:20:49 PM »

Yes!!  A fusion weld isn't very strong,  I would strongly suggest using filler rod.
Logged
gtrpwr
Guest
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #345 on: May 13, 2009, 01:03:54 AM »

It depends on the joint design.  Autogenous welds(no filler) are used all the time in fabrication with good results.

If you have an edge, lap or corner joint you can employ no filler with success.  Tee and butt joints will always need filler though when tiging.
On tubing you want to use filler as it is a butt joint.  Without filler you will end up with a concave weld and more then likely some undercut on the edges. 

Run your stainless colder then mild steel but not enough that you don't get fusion.  If you run too hot on your 300ss as you will get carbide precipitation and your metal will lose all the qualities you want from it in the HAZ.
« Last Edit: May 13, 2009, 01:08:38 AM by gtrpwr » Logged
hotrodder_101
Doing research for build as soon as money permits!!!!!!!
Classified Viewers
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 375

Location: Bogue Chitto, MS

View Profile
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #346 on: May 31, 2009, 01:43:54 AM »

Alright just read this entire thread. I have a couple questions. First I want to use SS to make my headers, and some one here asked about the flux on the back side. Which is better? To bach purge with inert gas or use a flux? Also Say you are in a car welding a cage in, and you do not have the ability to use a foot pedal. Would you just run off the amperage of the welder? One last question. What about this converting a stick welder to a TIG? Does any one have a link or know some where to look for this? On my Lincoln MIG the gas goes in the back of the welder. So I was just wondering if I bought a good AC/DC stick if I could turn it into a TIG?
Logged

'90 LX 5.0 Ported E7s, Crane cam, Spyder intake, Art Carr AOD, 4:10s, Zex Plate system

'89 Ranger 2.3 Extended Cab WORK
Supe
The Great 400 Block Cracker
After Dark
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 627


Location: Shelby, NC

View Profile WWW
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #347 on: July 05, 2009, 06:26:33 PM »

Purge is far better than solar flux.

Yes, you can run without a pedal.  The reason I don't like scratch start/lift arc is that you have no way of terminating the arc other than pulling the tungsten out of the weld pool, and you will loose gas coverage briefly as the weld is cooling.

Stick welders can be converted to TIG just by changing the leads and using a TIG torch with an integral gas valve.  Problem is, you'll have to use scratch start unless you start adding a stand alone high frequency box, at which point you're almost better off finding a new machine, especially if you want to weld aluminum.
Logged
hotrodder_101
Doing research for build as soon as money permits!!!!!!!
Classified Viewers
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 375

Location: Bogue Chitto, MS

View Profile
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #348 on: July 06, 2009, 07:34:03 AM »

Thanks Supe
Logged

'90 LX 5.0 Ported E7s, Crane cam, Spyder intake, Art Carr AOD, 4:10s, Zex Plate system

'89 Ranger 2.3 Extended Cab WORK
smokey1226
E98
Non Seller

Offline Offline

Posts: 21

Location: SE WI

View Profile
Re: Welding STICKY
« Reply #349 on: July 14, 2009, 10:11:40 PM »

i really would like to practice and get good at Tig, ^^^ those weld pictures are purrrrdy!
Logged

Corn Fed
Pages: 1 ... 12 13 [14] 15 16 Go Up Print 
TheTurboForums  |  Specific Tech Sections  |  DIY and Junkyard Turbo Tech  |  Topic: Welding STICKY « previous next »
Jump to:  

Turbomustangs.com theme by My Sack
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.173 seconds with 20 queries.