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My first turbo build...'77 Dodge D-100 225 slant six/3spd manual

Discussion in 'The Turbo "Builds" Board' started by slantin_77, Feb 23, 2014.

  1. slantin_77

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2014
    Hello and welcome to my build, thanks for checking it out! The vehicle under the knife (should say ENGINE, not vehicle...at least not yet) is a 1977 Dodge D100 pickup with a regular cab/stepside and the powerplant is a 225ci slant six with a 3spd column shift manual (wanting an A833 4spd floor shift manual in the future). I just got 18's on it and lowered it 5" in the front and 6" in the rear. Has a real nice aggressive stance. The truck will go under a full restoration when I have the money and when my friend has the time. For now, I'll just drive it as-is and while I'm waiting for the restoration to take place, I plan to build a turbo setup for the extra 225 slant six I have already on an engine stand. It's from a 1969 Valiant with 80k miles on it and the previous owner said it ran as smooth as silk before he took it out of the car to replace with a 318.

    Now so far I purchased an AiResearch Garrett T04 turbocharger from a 1987 Buick Grand National that has 30-40k on the turbo. It's not complete (needs wastegate and exhaust elbow) but those parts I can get from a turbo Buick forum pretty cheap. I have been doing a lot of reading on other people's experiences with turbo'ing these engines and 10psi seems to be about the most you wanna pump into a completely stock engine, but I'm hoping 15psi could be safely run on a trip or two down the drag strip a year. I'd really like to make a 12-second truck for track but streetable enough to get in and cruise anywhere while getting 20+ MPG. I'd be happy with getting 250-300whp out of it when done. I also want the setup to be extremely clean because it will be a show truck that will be driven on cruises and on weekends. Anyways, here's what I have for a project:
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    Here's the engine I will have turbocharged:
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    Here's the turbo:
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    Here's how much room I have in the bay for the turbo setup:
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    Here's the space I have for the intercooler and what I plan to use for one:
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  2. kruser02

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2009
    Neat truck. Love seeing something different! Good luck with the build.
     
  3. afterfire

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2012
    Nice truck. Maybe you already posted but are you planning on blow-thru or efi?
     
  4. Drac0nic

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2005
    There's a few / turbo builds on the board. They seem to get really awesome results out of these engines, even stock. Can't wait to see what you do with it!
     
  5. slantin_77

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2014
    Im doing a blow-thru carb with a Holley 2300 500cfm 2bbl. And yes, I have read up some GREAT results on turbo'd slants. Im pretty damn excited to start the build.
     
  6. boostfridge

    Joined:
    May 12, 2008
    Nice truck! Any idea on what it weighs?
     
  7. dodge turbo

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2007
    Dam its my trucks twin almost

    mine weighs 3750 with me in it
     
  8. jfive

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2011
    Can you do a blow thru with the 2 barrel holley? I tried looking this up for a solution to a idea I had a while back, with no success. Might look at using a 600 edelbrock, or holley dp.
     
  9. slantin_77

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2014
    Thanks guys! I have no idea on what the truck weighs...right now a lot more than usual because the bed is for "storing" at the moment. LoL! The Holley 2300 500cfm carb was the only carb that was recommended to me, and by multiple people, so it's gotta work.

    Well today I got a package sitting on my doorstep...
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    I found a cnc machined flange to weld onto the manifold, but now I have to modify the manifold to make it work. I gotta jump on the slant six forums to see if anyone has a tutorial on how to do that. I am not spending $1000 on a custom-made turbo header...eff that shit! Anyways, as I get more parts collected, I will update the thread. Thanks for looking!
     
  10. jfive

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2011
    Make sure you mount the turbo high enough that the oil drains back in the to engine.
     
  11. Drac0nic

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2005
    If you can clear it just use a 180 bend. The gn turbo should use a 2.25 or 2.5 3 bolt header flange. Cant remember which, last time i borrowed a gasket from the parts store to measure.
     
  12. 91turboterror

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2013
    Why bother with a turbo manifold?? Like done on the jeep 4.0 & 2.5 turbos bring the pipe off the stock manifold & make it come upwards on the other side of the engine.
     
  13. slantin_77

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2014
    Yeah, that's what I plan on doing. I'm going to get a u-bend out of stainless steel and angle the pipe coming back up to the turbo (you'll see why below) then weld the flange onto the pipe. Also you will see below that I am going to make some sort of a bracket/brace to hold the turbo so the weight does not rest on the j-pipe or manifold.

    I got bored yesterday so I went down to the garage and dropped the turbo in the engine bay to see where I'd like it to sit and how I want it situated with the manifold/j-pipe and such. The pics below is exactly how I want the exhaust/intake sides to be routed (intake side straight up and exhaust at an angle to bolt to the j-pipe).
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    Then I decided to figure out how I want to brace the turbo, and I found some mounting points on both exhaust and intake sides of the turbo, and also found that making a brace/bracket that would come off of the driver's side engine mount would be perfect! Should be very easy to make a bracket that will hold the turbo and keep the weight off the manifold!
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  14. afterfire

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2012
    I'd rather see the mouting point bolted to the Cast Iron turbine housing than the aluminum comp housing.
     
  15. slantin_77

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2014
    I thought that making a bracket that bolts to both hot/cold sides would balance it better...maybe not? If not, I will definitely brace it from the hot side. I'm new to turbos so I will take as much advice as I can get! LoL
     
  16. Drac0nic

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2005
    That has a mounting bracket on the turbine already. Looks like you're missing your wastegate actuator btw. Not sure if that's going to be a biggie or if you're going to use an external gate. By the time you end up getting an elbow and an actuator it may be easier to get an external gate honestly. The elbows can be a performance hinderance but they've gone 11s in a GN when ported so they must not be that terrible!
     
  17. Forcefed86

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2005
    Cool project! Those slant 6's are tough if you can keep the head down. Your engines just a hair smaller than the turbo buicks. If you really want 12's with that heavy truck you may want to consider a larger turbo.... or add another just like it! ;)

    The guys running good numbers on OE chargers have the launch ironed out perfectly and push the turbo way past its efficient range. With your setup and goals I'd want a turbo with little restriction on the exhaust side and plenty of flow so it doesn't heat up the air charge. 2 OE buick units would work great IMO. Or if you want to stay with a cheap single, something along the lines of an Holset HX40 (6-7 blade 60mm wheels) would work VERY well IMO.

    Good luck!
     
  18. dodge turbo

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2007
    Look up "shaker223" on here and his post's he has a badass slant 6 dart, you want something fast out of that slant, i would follow his build and it was all lo-key stuff he used for his turbo build
     
  19. glhs0426

    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2013
    Your truck shouldn't weigh in more than 3300lbs. Nice project, make a little progress every week.
     
  20. v8440

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2003
    I had a stock '78 longbed regular cab /6 2wd truck with a 727 auto. It weighed a little over 3700. That said, the big bottleneck with the /6 engine is going to be head flow, or more specifically, lack of it. The bottom end of the engine should be pretty strong as long as you don't get totally crazy with the rpm (remember, these motors have a 4.125" stroke!). You'll probably want to get an aftermarket cam to help make up for poor head flow. I would not pick a cam out of a catalog, I would call one or more of the major cam companies and tell them what you're doing. Their advice will probably be better than anything we could tell you.
     
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