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1946 Studebaker M5 build.

Discussion in 'The Turbo "Builds" Board' started by Mnlx, Mar 19, 2016.

  1. Mnlx

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2009
    I've owned this pickup since high school, and finally decided I need to do something with it.... Originally it was going to be a powered by a ls, and turbo, but one can only have so many of those builds, then it was going to be a 4x4 diesel, but the truck didn't fit the drivetrain that I wanted to use, and I also never use the 4x4 I have now, so that was out. The current, and hopefully the final plan is to go 2wd, compound turbo 5.9 P7100 cummins, 47rh with a few good parts, on a 74 Gmc 2500 camper special frame. The Gmc looks to be almost the perfect foundation... perfect width frame, and axles, front suspension just begging for bags, and a 14 bolt rear, with sway bars front and rear.... just need to shorten it about 20". So this 20160319_185217.jpg #ad
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    on this 20160319_185236.jpg #ad
    with the engine/trans from this. 20160319_185350.jpg #ad


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  2. flyinhillbilly

    Joined:
    May 8, 2006
    In for this one.
     
  3. 74chlngrTT5.9

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2009
    Oh yea another one to follow.

    Mike
     
  4. Rob_0t

    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2016
    Boosted stude' ???
     
  5. Mnlx

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2009
    Boosted diesel Stude...

    Didn't get much done today, pulled the front springs, and set frame at ride height. With this stance I still have about 3-4" of compression travel at the wheel, the A arms, and tie rods are about level, and it should put the bottom of the rockers about 10" off the ground, and the bottom of the running boards at 8-8 1/2" This hopefully will be a true daily driver, and possible tow rig, so I have decided to stick with coils/leafs for simplicity, and durability rather than the original plan of 4 link, and bags (for now anyway). I have a set of 99 Silverado 1500 rear springs i'll be using along with bags for pulling/hauling/height adjustment. I also stripped some more out of the cab, I still have to get the doors off, cut the floor out, and trim the rear of the cab for frame clearance so I can mock up the cab mounts. 20160320_205644.jpg #ad
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  6. jlbayes

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2015
    you would be further ahead to use the rear axle outta the dodge.
     
  7. BlownShovel

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2003
    subbing in for some fabrication :popcorn:
     
  8. Mnlx

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2009
    Why? The 70 is way too wide, a 3.54 with an open diff, and drum brakes.... The 14 bolt is a great axle, plenty strong, and the disc brake upgrade is simple, and cheap.
     
  9. ss496

    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2004
    I heart corporate 14 bolts as well...parts are retard cheap
     
  10. 73 nova

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2011
    Cheap and easy is the way I go with part replacement as well.
     
  11. 74chlngrTT5.9

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2009
    Me also that is why I have my old Dodge. LOL.
     
  12. HAULIN IT

    Joined:
    May 19, 2009
    We have talked about 'bakers in a PM a time or Two. I also have a M5 truck & years ago like you, found with some measuring that an old square body GM truck frame seems about ideal. Limited time, life & too many other projects have stayed in the way.
    I have spent a fair amount of time measuring, doing cut & paste scale pictures, ect. & have some rather serious body mods planned to take some height (6 or 8") out of the cab/truck while keeping the Studebaker look & get everything...bumper, fender bottoms & running boards all on a flat plain. I love the "odd" look of a baker truck, however they are just too thick from the running boards to the windows for me. They look like they came from the factory with a chopped top, but from there down...it just keeps going & going. Keep us posted, Lorne
     
  13. Mnlx

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2009
    I've never really been a fan of "customs" on any body style (to each there own though), and I like the goofy look of the cab, so plan to keep it as stock looking as I can. I plan to work on it this weekend, i've been studying it this week trying to decide which direction to go... As well as the frame fits, it still has some odd bends that makes mounting the cab a little more challenging than I was hoping, so that, and the fact that its a bit rusty at the front spring hanger has me thinking about grafting the front clip to the original Studebaker frame, and boxing it where I can, or a 4x2x.187 back half. All three options look to be about the same amount of fabrication at this point.
     
  14. jlbayes

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2015
    which 14 bolt do you have? the 63 or 67"? the gov lock that is likely in the 14bolt will leave you no better off than an open 70. disc brake upgrade is moot point as it is just as easy on the 70. never said there was anything wrong with the 14 bolt.
     
  15. Mnlx

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2009
    It measures 63-64" ish and agree the gov lock isn't a great diff, but for what I'm doing it'll work fine until I decide to upgrade.. I'm not racing or off-roading, just cruising, and some occasional towing. The biggest factor was the width. My post wasn't meant as disrespectful, but if you're going to tell me I'm better off with something else, a good reason why would sure help.
     
  16. jlbayes

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2015
    i agree and it wasn't my intention to come off as brash either. my comment was in regards to what diesel torque does to axles, transmissions etc. a fast spooling set of compounds means big torque early on.
     
  17. Mnlx

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2009
    If it were going into a 7000 lb truck I'd totally agree, but hopes are this thing is 4500 or less.
     
  18. flyinhillbilly

    Joined:
    May 8, 2006
    I would have zero fear of the 14bolt after the things mine has survived. I've just rev'd 'er up 'till the valve float and slid my foot off the side of the clutch more times than I can count (I did go to school in Arkansas, so you'll have to make your own judgment on that)
     
  19. jlbayes

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2015
    you could say the same about my dana 70 and light duty t-case. lol
     
  20. HAULIN IT

    Joined:
    May 19, 2009
    I realize any modifications could be referred to as "customs"... Just to clear up my thoughts, I'm not talking putting something like '58 Edsel headlights & tail lights in the fenders & shit like that. I have seen guys do things like "pancake" the roofs on these trucks to get rid of the roundness, ect & other things I don't care for & feel it takes away the Studie look. Like you, I like the "oddity" of the shapes. I'm planning to take some thickness out of the height, finish the running boards off (make new ones) to fit tight against the fenders, ect. & move the headlights out to flow more with the outer grilles, ect. It WILL still look like a Studie truck! Lower & wider stance is all

    When I said "rather serious" modifications that was in respect to the work involved...not the look of the final project. In fact much of it I would expect only a real die-hard M5 guy to even notice. I won't clutter your build tread with the details.

    A couple things I will add that may help you. I have been playing with the '73-'87 GM trucks since before I could drive & led me to the "What if"" stuff in my head. My thoughts are to use the Chevy truck floor pan/lower portion of the firewall. Trimming down on the sides as needed til the cab goes over with fabricated "drops" to close off the sides much like other trucks of this era (again I want a rather low outcome). The mounts & back crossmember moved as needed to be in the correct place. A floor, firewall recess, body mounts & a trans. tunnel are needed & one that fits the frame is as good a start as any. Your build is a bit different with the Cummins diesel, but my plan is to use much of the GM truck donor as reasonably possible...We need certain things to work, steering, pedals, electrical, ect. ect. & a donor truck just seems to make the most sense to me. Bonus stuff if using the floor is readily available molded carpet that fits the tunnel...just needs trimmed, seat belt mounts & other little stuff that take time.
    I did a 2" angled (front to back) bodydrop on my latest '85 truck & would employ the same idea to the frame/body mounts/floorpan under the Studie. Most square body truck guys never notice...it was a fair amount of work, but it has many advantages over other lowering methods

    The other thing I found is the track width is a bit wide. Guys have sectioned the control arms an inch which will bring you to 63" & there is a company selling narrowed & also 1" forward control arms for these GM trucks now that may help you if you need to slide the body ahead to clear the steering box...I am thinking rack & pinion myself, there are a few companies that offer bolt-in deals for that as well if that becomes a problem. Take Care & Keep us posted, Lorne
     
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