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1988 S10...”Black Coffin” build

Discussion in 'The Turbo "Builds" Board' started by BlackCoffin, Mar 28, 2021.

  1. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    Next was the bronze bushing trunion upgrade. We have a heated sonic cleaner at work and used that to clean the rocker bodies. It does the trick that’s for sure! 60C69FB1-296A-423F-B61F-6301271A1D03.jpeg #ad
     
    PaulC-turbo5.0 likes this.
  2. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    My goal this past winter was to tear down the engine, check condition and assemble with cleaned or upgraded parts. One night I got bored and took the heads off. The engine had been sitting outside with no intake when I bought it and as a result rust in 2 cylinders. The other cylinders looked pretty decent still though. I pulled one rod/piston and the bearings looked good which I was happy about. Based on the rust and how sludgy and dirty the pistons were I decided to ball hone it and order new rings. Since the rod bearings looked good I didn’t touch the crank, don’t need to know anyway. Most pistons had scratches on the skirts and the only mark on the crank I saw was just a visual blemish and smooth. 199E39A3-7E8C-47DB-81D1-F16F578CB089.jpeg #ad
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  3. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    Pistons were pulled and separated from the rod, then put into the sonic cleaner at work. Wow...they came out looking amazing. I used a pick to scrape hard carbon buildup in all the ring lands as well. I used some 1000 grit sandpaper and cleaned up the scratches on the skirts and called it good! AA2B5FFB-74DF-4968-ADB1-54BC77AE63BA.jpeg #ad
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    PaulC-turbo5.0 and B E N like this.
  4. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    I prepped the head gasket surface of the block by using a bronze wire brush attached to a drill followed by a plastic bristle brush which worked really well. After that I used a 320 grit ball home and touched up all the cylinders. The 2 cylinders with rust I spent extra time on and while there is still some visual marks I’m going to run it anyway. This is a half sloppy build half so it right so this part I wasn’t going to put the money towards making any better. Once it was all cleaned up I installed the rods/pistons again. I checked piston ring gap and the tightest one was at spec from the ring manufacturer at .0065”x bore, with majority of the others being .001-.003” larger. This setup won’t see much over 10psi so gapping any larger I wasn’t concerned about. F5F3161D-815C-4540-B0CE-F21EC5918F9B.jpeg #ad
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  5. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    Once the pistons and rods were in next was the camshaft. Went with the BTR stage 2 turbo cam. I noticed they recently came out with a new one and provides a little more lift than the old one. Can’t remember if duration changed at all or not? Got the timing chain installed and was ready for the oil pump. I ordered a GM performance pump since standard flow was all I was going for, and when it showed up I noticed it had the same part number on the cover as the melling units that cost $40 more. Anyway I pulled the pump apart and shimmed the pressure spring to get a little more pressure before the bypass valve opened and also ported the inlet and outlet on it. Just opened it and smoothed out the inlet and outlet ports a bit. AE75F0BD-6336-4F4C-AE0A-0210636B293E.jpeg #ad
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    flyinhillbilly likes this.
  6. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    One of my favorite parts about any build is cleaning parts for some reason. This oil pan was coated and caked on the entire outside of it, and had a massive layer of sludge and hard deposits inside. I scraped it out and took multiple cans of brake cleaner to it, parts washer and a heated pressure washer. The end results were impressive! BFD7600F-66D7-4ED4-8CD7-09A8D461F2DC.jpeg #ad
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  7. B E N

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2016
    Your welcome to come clean parts for any of my builds :)

    Looks good!
     
    Twin Turbo Skylark likes this.
  8. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    Send them my way! Even on the trucks at work, 300,000 miles and leaking everywhere...but dang it the area I’m working on is getting cleaned up good before it goes out haha.
     
  9. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    Last piece the puzzle was getting the heads on to seal things up. Seeing as the 706 heads do well on the 5.3’s I stuck with those. I ordered a BTR .660 lift valve spring kit with titanium retainers and decided I should do a little porting on the heads based off some research I did. I left the runners as is minus the rocker stud bump in the intake, just cartridge rolled them to clean up the castings. I spend most of my work around the valve guide and around the valve seat. It seems a few CFM can be made there and if I only pick up a bit I know it will be amplified with boost so that seemed good to me. After many hours they were all ground, sanded and exhausts polished. I pressure washed them twice and cleaned them up well. I then lapped the valves myself with a drill and valve compound to clean up the seat face. To surface the heads I used a block and some fine grit sandpaper, 320 I believe. I lightly scuffed it and left most of the original machine marks, but did end up with a smoother finish than factory. For only my second set of heads I think they turned out alright. Got them finished and bolted them on the engine using a factory GM gasket that has a smaller bore and has been said to hold up to moderate boost levels alright. Coated the gasket in copper spray and torqued them down. Good enough for this guy! 825E9C91-8706-4A0E-8AF2-B9AB845A1B29.jpeg #ad
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    PaulC-turbo5.0 likes this.
  10. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    Intake BC941881-5471-4ECC-AAEF-25E72DB47F2E.jpeg #ad
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    PaulC-turbo5.0 likes this.
  11. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    Exhaust is where the most time was spent and I feel like the most improvement was made. Sounds like for boost getting the exhaust flowing on these heads is more important than the intake. 58F4E1FA-DE54-4EC9-A12F-CB8470B9462E.jpeg #ad
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  12. PaulC-turbo5.0

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2021
    Nice work man! That stuff sure is cleaning up nice!
     
  13. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    Thank you! I like my stuff to look clean even if it is budget oriented haha.
     
  14. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
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    Engine all back together, measured for pushrods and of course were on backorder. They finally shipped and should be here next week though. Got the oil drain fitting welded up on the front cover, flexplate and nose extension for a th350 tranny/converter on also.
     
    PaulC-turbo5.0 likes this.
  15. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    With the unknown of things getting back in stock, I saw jegs only had 1 BBC water pump conversion kit in stock where they had 6 not too long ago. I figured I should order it and avoid a backorder. The factory water pump inlet/outlet would have been too crammed on the passenger side and wanted an electric water pump anyway. This pump is half the price of a LS one also. I’ll run a remote thermostat behind the driver headlight that will connect to the block outlet ports. CE8212F4-8CB8-4DD9-88AA-47D98F726828.jpeg #ad
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    PaulC-turbo5.0 likes this.
  16. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    My converter came back from a restall and was the piece I was waiting on to put the engine back into the truck for the last time. I needed to finish welding up the crossmember and do a little grinding and painting. Finished that up and am ready for the engine to go in. B6762FC5-FDB4-45AE-A6AE-FEA5C1A9E196.jpeg #ad
     
    PaulC-turbo5.0 likes this.
  17. Mnlx

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2009
    Are you worried about frame twist after that mod? With that small tube you lose all the torsional rigidity where it matters. It would concern me on a street driven truck without a cage to support it.
     
    B E N likes this.
  18. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    I’m not too worried about it. I’ve seen it done on a lot of s10 builds. I could weld gussets around it for added insurance. Once the engine is in I’ll check clearances and maybe do this on the lift at work.

    Side note. Would welding another piece connecting the frame behind the bumper be even better for rigidity?
     
  19. Mnlx

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2009
    I've seen them too, and always thought they were sketchy. All the force is right at the cross member so up front probably wouldn't do much. If it were mine, I'd do a piece of rectangle tubing with the wide dimension vertical at the very front of your cut out. Use as much of the vertical room that you can. Solid engine mounts would stiffen it up if you have those.
     
  20. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    I do have solid engine mounts, I’ll tie in the pipe with some vertical gussets, and that’s something I can easily do even if the engine is in. Thanks for the feedback.
     
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