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1988 S10...”Black Coffin” build

Discussion in 'The Turbo "Builds" Board' started by BlackCoffin, Mar 28, 2021.

  1. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    Intake manifold goodness. Going to sand roll the inside to clean up some spots then boot it on after the engine goes back in. Going to mock up my steam vent kit while it’s on the stand though. I also got my merge collector in for my 2 wastegates to exit the fender. A414387B-2D39-4058-BC31-1E2E27135F2C.jpeg #ad
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  2. PaulC-turbo5.0

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2021
    Clean up that alternator and bracket already! Just kidding man looking good!
     
  3. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    haha it’s bugging me too don’t worry! Need to make sure everything is finalized and works when the engine goes back in, then it’s coming out and getting cleaned and painted. The alternator is just mock up, little stiff when turning by hand and then pine needles start coming out of it.
     
  4. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    Finished the bracket and layout for my steam vent block. Now just need to build the lines for it. 464269FD-9CE5-4EB0-934E-EF2914160FF0.jpeg #ad
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    Disney Lincoln likes this.
  5. MastermindWorksaws

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2021
  6. Disney Lincoln

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2003
    People: "Man, you got like a 2 stage fogger on that mofo AND a turbo?!!!
    BlackCoffin: "Naw man, I just take care of my steams".
     
  7. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    That is epic! Haha, it’s all about the steams.
     
    Disney Lincoln likes this.
  8. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    Steams officially taken care of 9E7FA516-D63A-47A5-B2AC-6397EF54D4B3.jpeg #ad
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  9. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    Built a cheap setup to prime the engine with oil. Wanted to make sure I got oil completely through the engine ok before I took it off the stand. 2 adapter fittings off the oil pressure sensor port and one off the port off the block/oil pump galley, barbed fitting, pressure gauge, and a garden sprayer attached to a clear 1/4” hose. Pump the sprayer up and sit and wait. Took about 15-20min to pump 5 quarts of oil through. Compressed air could get more pressure but I kept it around 15 psi and would periodically turn the engine over. Slowly but surely oil started making its way out of the pushrods and over the rocker arms. 4qts in all but 1 had oil coming out and it had me second guessing stuff. Few more pumps later and finally started creeping out. Pretty slick setup for not too much money. Pre lubed a bunch of galleys and bearings that I didn’t tear apart or apply assembly lube to. DBCDFCCE-DC8C-4F32-9ED7-284F5A10B51B.jpeg #ad
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  10. MastermindWorksaws

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2021
    That's pretty cool. I've thought about doing something like that....just never followed thru.
     
  11. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    Thought about using this as well for the engine before I start it for the first time or if it sits for months without running. Really is simple enough and doesn’t involve any wear on items to get oil pressure like using your starter to get things moving.
     
    MastermindWorksaws likes this.
  12. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    Got a wild hair and decided to put the engine back in last night. I had been measuring converter the flexplate clearance and it wasn’t looking good, but I wanted to get it in and for sure check. As I thought the converter can spin but is touching and rubbing on the flexplate when I spin it by hand. I measured the face of the pump to the shaft seal and transferred that measurement to the converter shaft and drew a line. This is how I knew the converter was seated fully. ICT billet makes a 1/8” transmission spacer I’ll get and will give me the clearance I need. Seems like the best and cheapest option. Also I built all my hot side with no gaskets like a noob and I have one pipe I’ll need to slice and add a small sliver of pipe to so I can merge my v band flanges again. Other than that it’s in and everything clears well so far! B465D8B6-4932-4AD2-8EFF-E00498C49EAD.jpeg #ad
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  13. MastermindWorksaws

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2021
    Lookin good man !!!!
     
  14. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    Thank you sir!
     
    MastermindWorksaws likes this.
  15. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    Thinking I found the second wastegate location. I’m going to cut and angle the lower fitting off the radiator and route the hose between the hot pipe and wastegate. The wastegate outlet I’ll route over the hot pipe and down to merge at the fender into the collector. In theory it looks good, see if I can make it all fit. Should exit the fender roughly in the position shown in the picture. I wanted lower but this position will be easier to merge to. 7329902E-D582-44BD-BA68-8E45F5171239.jpeg #ad
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  16. MastermindWorksaws

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2021
    Getting crowded for sure.
     
  17. Disney Lincoln

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2003
    Hold up there, Killer... Red flags. What flexplate do you have? I've never had a problem nor head of anyone having a problem adapting a TH350/TH400/PG to to a 5.3. It should have the dished flexplate and then all you would need would be the crank adapter for the converter pilot. Granted, i've ony done a few LS swaps, so hopefully those with more experience will also chime in.
     
    B E N and Mnlx like this.
  18. 55bowtie

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2020
    Looking good man nice job!
     
  19. Mnlx

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2009
    What Disney said, a dished flexplate, and a converter pilot extension, or a flat 6.0 style flex with the bolt on spacer. I've used both, and have never had an issue.
     
  20. BlackCoffin

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
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