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91 Lincoln LSC

Discussion in 'The Turbo "Builds" Board' started by Wallace, May 19, 2023.

  1. B E N

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2016
    It works very well, and those switches are dead simple and reliable. If I were running two for two fans I would make one a little higher temp than the other, or mount it close to the water outlet. That way I don't have to hear two fans on unless it's real hot, sort of like the OEM's do... only more caveman.

    One of the reasons I prefer an electric fan is the noise, there is nothing like a massive clutch fan kicking on to make your hot rod sound like a moving van. If your cooling system is efficient, and a little oversized the fans shouldn't kick on that often unless your idling or in traffic.

    Another good thing about switches in the radiator tank is if you are going down the highway chances are pretty good the fans aren't going to try to kick on since the airflow will usually keep things cool enough not to need them. Heater tends to work a little better too, since you are relying on the water temp in the radiator rather than at the cylinder head or water jacket, in the winter time the fans in my jeep almost never come on because the heater is pulling enough temp out of the coolant.

    If you end up using AC in the vehicle you can hook the trinary switch to the same relay ground, then your fans trigger off the same relays, all ground triggering and mechanical switches means there is no chance of frying sensitive electronics.
     
  2. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Main harness from Ms to adapter is done .. I hope I got them in the right spots. Board on the left is for Ls coil drivers and 12v input 2 step. Once the extra board is done I'll get it all clamped. The bitch is going to be getting the crank trigger and coil wires up through the firewall it's wicked tight in there PXL_20230718_214305368.jpg #ad
     
  3. Briansshop

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2006
    Oh yeah. That looks fun. LOL
     
  4. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Ok, all wired in. The real treat is getting the harness for the coils and crank trigger through the firewall with the ecu housing in the way .. I'm going try and fish it from the engine side it looks like I can get to it from the underside. PXL_20230720_201824640.jpg #ad
     
    BBR and Briansshop like this.
  5. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    I got it installed and tested .. it looks like I wired it correctly. Ran the extra harness through the big grommet for the eec harness. Ms2 in the glove box. Tuning cable where the ashtray used to be. I ran the Microsquirt harness to the backseat. PXL_20230723_145557757.jpg #ad
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  6. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Got the coils mounted on the passenger side. I forgot I had to make standoffs for both sides I only made 8 so have to back and do that first. I set them up on a P head with a bbk flipped forward and down and clearance is tight on a couple but t think it'll be ok with 90* boots. PXL_20230726_005335520.jpg #ad
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  7. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Coils are wired and finally tested good. PXL_20230730_215741296.jpg #ad
     
    Russell, B E N and 91turboterror like this.
  8. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Finally got the Hella fan switch. Long story but I ended up with a Facet brand with the higher temperature settings as well. I had to add salt to get the boiling point raised. Both are made in Italy and look to be the same manufacturer. They are heavier than the Chinese one.
    Hella 162*/152* and 198*/180*
    Facet 184*/165* and 214*/190*
    Flex fuel sensor and fuel pressure sensors wired and tested. I've got a clean signal from the crank sensor. Waiting on fuel injectors and I'm going to start it up. PXL_20230808_231026739.jpg #ad
     
  9. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    It runs finally but having trouble with belt slippage on the crank pulley. Bead blasting didn't help. I'm using a speed Dr alternator bracket and no smog pump. Crank pulley gets really hot after running for just a minute or so. The good news is everything else turned out great. Fuel pressure and ethanol content sensors work good. I'm out of town for a week or so going to try and sort it out when I get back. I think I can squeeze an idler on the driver side under the ac compressor and get some additional wrap. I'd like to keep the low mount alternator it makes a lot of room on that side.
    I got fr500 wheels for it 17x9 and 17x10.5

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  10. B E N

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2016
    Did you check your belt alignment? It looks like the alternator might be a little back from, or out of square to the crankshaft... of course that is based on one photo and I could be totally out of place.
     
  11. tbird

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2004
    doesnt look like the belt has any wrap on the crank so its probably slipping.
    Most systems have at least 180 deg. wrap or more on the crank pulley.
    I feel like it should come off PS pump and under the crank, wrap up to the top of the crank and around the water pump and over to the alt.
     
    nxcoupe and B E N like this.
  12. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    That's probably the right way to route it. I'll try it that way. Thanks.
     
  13. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    What a nightmare with the belt. Tbird was right I corrected the routing so it wrapped the crank and then around the WP. This did not help the smoking of the belt at the alternator. I ended up machining an idler mount and drilling/tapping the bracket. This seems to have fixed it. This car is a power monster with the air compressor and fans running. This alternator mount probably works ok if you don't have a large load.
    I've started tuning. Only changes so far are explorer intake and Siemens 80's. My fuel pressure sensor shows the pressure is about 4 psi low. Going to get an afpr and a gauge to verify. Idles fine with the larger injectors.

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    nxcoupe, 91turboterror and tbird like this.
  14. SpeedyBuick

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2020
    Cool build. Great sleeper material. I'd never expect to get gapped by that based on outward appearance.
     
  15. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Even with the extra wrap it was still smoking the belt. I suspected the battery was bad had it tested and showed good. I replaced it anyways and problem solved. I wish I could get a good carbon pile battery tester instead of the junk that's available.
    I'm getting sync errors when under hard acceleration so tuning is on hold. I think my crank sensor mount is vibrating. I'm going to weld it solid as I don't need any adjustment now and add some bracing. I've got a .040" gap on it.
    In the event this doesn't correct it what options are there for a store bought mount? Innovators West has one but kind of pricey and I'm not sure if it will work with the trigger wheel sandwiched between the pulley and balancer.
     
    SpeedyBuick likes this.
  16. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Problem with the crank sensor solved. It was the sensor itself. I replaced my Littlefuse with the red anodized one from DIY. I had to start over with the fuel mapping as I didn't pick up on the sync issue and the table was completely wrecked. I've got it running and driving pretty well after just an hour of tuning. Idle is rock solid. I'm going to lower the base idle with the throttle body screw and then setup the active idle and hopefully get the AC hooked back up.
    What is a reasonable amount of timing for a stock engine with 93 octane? Only mods are explorer intake and a good 2 1/4" exhaust from the cat back. I loaded the tune from DIY when they were selling the PNP for the fox mustang and the timing table was for a P head. See attached for the current timing map.
    Base timing map.png #ad
     
  17. nxcoupe

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2008
    Pull a degree or two out of the top 3 rows where it goes to 33+ degrees. That should make good safe power.
     
  18. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Heater core shit the bed. I pulled the seats and partially removed the dash I figured now was a good time to do the sfc's. Out came the carpet.
    I've got a bunch of 2x3 .120 wall box tubing.
    I would really like input from those who have done this how they went about it.
    I've got the Mathis book and he shows a straight run back to the rear seat area and then a cut to angle it to line up with the rear subframe and control arm mount. 16975623481933634669060989275985.jpg #ad
     
  19. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Front subframes are out along with the transmission mounts. I'm going to move the transmission mounts back about an inch. I think I can move the engine back at least 1 1/2".
    I started cutting spot welds with the harbor freight cutters .. and quickly went to a die grinder with a burr.
    The Mathis book lists dimensions for the connectors along with the angle at the back to tie into the control arm bolt. Any idea how to determine how much of a pie cut to get the desired angle?
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    91turboterror likes this.
  20. B E N

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2016
    You can use a right angle calculator to get close, you just need the width of the metal and the angle (take your desired angle and subtract it from 90°) . Use the width of the material as b, and the angle you want in ∠α. The number it spits out for length a is how much width your pie cut(s) need, less a little for blade width. Since a pie cut from straight material is 2 right triangle back to back it works pretty well.

    Or you can just take a little at a time until you hit the angle you need.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2023
    nxcoupe likes this.
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