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91 Lincoln LSC

Discussion in 'The Turbo "Builds" Board' started by Wallace, May 19, 2023.

  1. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
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    Right side is in. I'm going to wait to do the floor pans once I've got both sides in since I'll change over to the .023" wire.
    The Mathis instructions were very good .. I did take actual angles off the car and the length on mine was about 7" longer than he called for I guess the LSC is longer.
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  2. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    I forgot to mention this puts the top of the subframe connector right at the floorpan in the front seats area so minimal foot interference.
     
    Disney Lincoln and B E N like this.
  3. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Both sides are done. Jacking rails next and going to put it back together.

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  4. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Running new fuel #6 lines because I nicked one of them installing the sfc's. While I had it apart I installed a walbro 255 in the tank. I drilled out the riveted wire connection and used #8 brass screws.
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    Disney Lincoln, tbird and nxcoupe like this.
  5. B E N

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2016
    If those are O-rings you will want to capture the outside of them somehow.
     
  6. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Those are the hard plastic insulators. The stock washer was much smaller than the brass nut I think it will be ok. I did test to be sure no issues. I'm thinking of doing the rear suspension before I permanently install the tank that way I wouldn't have to do it twice. Thanks!
     
  7. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Transmission instead. 4r70w out of a 01' mustang V6. Ready to pull the pump and gear train. 17026083703087314982213128608737.jpg #ad
     
  8. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    All disassembled. Transmission had 180000 on it. Bobber was still in the pan I don't think the fluid had ever been changed. Pleasantly surprised to find almost no wear on any clutches with the exception of the forward. One clutch in that pack had significant wear and the adjacent steel had some blueing marks.
    I found metal shavings in the stator support that I think came from the converter.
    Going to freshen it and add some additional frictions and modify the main control using the tccoa articles.
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    Last edited: Dec 17, 2023
  9. Pro-SC

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2014
    I did the same with a 94 bird that I dropped a 302 into. Used a 99 v6 mustang 4r and did the J Mod along with alto reds and kolene steels. Also used the sensors from an AODE in the 4r to trick it to work with a 95 mustang 5.0 auto pcm. Worked great! Some people are not fans of the transmission though, not exactly sure why.
     
  10. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    I'm impressed at the condition. For that many miles with no fluid change the wear is not bad at all. The only bushings that show wear are the pump and rear case. Did you replace any of the bushings? I'm tempted to do those two and the tail shaft with the forced lube mod and call it good.
     
  11. Pro-SC

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2014
    No the bushings were still in good shape so I left them alone.
     
  12. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
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    Everything checked out with the exception of the main pressure regulator valve. The anodizing is worn away and the aluminum below is scored enough to feel it with a fingernail. The bore shows similar wear.
    I've got the vacuum test sheet but this area can't be tested.
    I purchased the sonnax zip kit with all the valve updates, Teflon seals, OD pin upgrade etc. it includes a new standard size valve with annular grooves to center this end of the valve. I don't believe replacing the valve is going to cut it.
    Sonnax sells an oversized valve .. you have to buy a reamer ($200) and they recommend a sizing tool. Nearly $400 to fix this valve.
    Sonnax sells two replacement valve bodies a standard and an hd version. It includes shift solenoids. Supposed to be upgraded.
    Does anyone offer a service to fix just that bore? Anyone with experience on the replacement valve bodies?
     
  13. nxcoupe

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2008
    Check
    Check with SilverFox, Dan does just about anything with an AOD or 4R70W
     
    Pro-SC and KEVINS like this.
  14. B E N

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2016
    A machine shop might be able to fit the valve cheaper than the tool. But a used valve body should be inexpensive? There have to people that have upgraded to full manual etc and have them laying around. Or even a performance body from Broader.
     
  15. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    I emailed Dan but got some automated response about aod input shaft availability. After reading up it seems this is a really common failure point of the transmission.
    A local transmission shop told me the valve is always scored .. they just put the steel transgo valve in it regardless of the bore condition.
    I thought about spending the $200 for the reamer and sizer I could set it up in the mill then I started looking for a replacement valvebody and for the money you get all new solenoids, epc and a resized PR.
    I ordered the sonnax fo95hd from Summit. I'll disassemble it and see what you get and perform any jmods that didn't come with it.
     
  16. tbird

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2004
    Gdam! 200 for a reamer? Must be some weird size.
     
  17. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    No kidding $200 and change for the reamer and burnishing tool. $40 for the valve. If you have a mill you don't need the $450 fixture! For $350 you get the whole valvebody with solenoids AND the resized valve. I'm just upset I didn't pull it apart before I bought the zip kit. I did use the one piece input shaft seals and the OD pin kit so not a total loss.
     
  18. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Transmission is done. The sonnax valvebody manual valve was bent out of the box so I ended up installing the one out of the old one. I did all of the jmod's for 500 hp and ignored the sonnax instructions. The only thing I read was a moderate increase in line pressure so I don't think it should be a problem. I kept the separator plate that came with it and used my modified one. If I run into issues I can always put that one in to see if that's the problem. I also added the pressurized oiling to the tail shaft bushing. 1 extra clutch in the direct and forward packs.
    All said and done about $1200 including the core price.
    Now I just need to take the hit and get a converter. Leaning towards a circle D going to call them and see what they recommend.
     
    ummduh, nxcoupe, B E N and 1 other person like this.
  19. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Started on the manifolds. I'm using schedule 10 321 ss weld els and 3/8" mild steel flanges. I made a mandrel and sizing die to get the square to round transition. I turned .060" off of the end that goes into the flange making it easier to form and it minimizes the distortion back to the round end. Driver's side first since it was the hardest to get to. Going to exit behind the sway bar. Let's me keep ps,ac.
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  20. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    DS done

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    ummduh, C-lab, nxcoupe and 4 others like this.
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