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91 Lincoln LSC

Discussion in 'The Turbo "Builds" Board' started by Wallace, May 19, 2023.

  1. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    PS done. It looks easier to get to but I had a harder time on this side. I'm thinking of cutting the flange between cylinders to allow some movement. Any thoughts on that? I read the logs tend to move a lot especially since they're stainless.
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  2. B E N

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2016
    I think cutting them is a good idea. The only bad thing about it is your holes may shift around a little bit when you relieve that stress.
     
  3. mld54

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2004
    I wouldn't cut them, If they move I think it would make then harder to install.
     
  4. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    I did cut them. The driver side moved very little. The passenger side moved quite a bit on #2/3. You can see the twist that was in it. They did bolt on no problem.

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  5. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    I got a bit sidetracked .. I bought a 94' Dodge Spirit with 56k on it. It's a 2.5 tbi auto car. I've got a 2.4 turbo out of a pt gt to put in it. It needed a head gasket and heater core. It's repaired and runs and drives .. I love these cars. I'll do a build on it after this.
    I mounted the turbo low on the passenger side. I keep ac, ps and there's room for a 4" exhaust with a full dynomax muffler. 40mm JGS wastegate and a RPS house brand 50mm bov.
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  6. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Merge and passenger up pipe done. IMG_20240218_100123707.jpg #ad
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  7. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
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    Intercooler is halfway in. I've got to trim a bit on the DS headlight/fascia so it doesn't rub there. 2-1/2" and 3" out. Going to have to remove part of the ps fascia and a bit of the sheet metal next to the radiator but it doesn't look too bad.
     
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  8. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Hot sides are all tacked together. Getting around the sway bar was challenging. I hope there's enough room under driving conditions.
    The downpipe/muffler outlet .. can anyone help me out with a way to accurately cut the fender out? I thought I was going to be able to just cut a hole but it's a little too low so it will be opened at the bottom.
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  9. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Not sure why the double pictures above. Here's the muffler.
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  10. B E N

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2016
    Cut a piece of scrap that will fit between the muffler and fender, you have that movement available in the muffler slip fit so you can slide the pipe in and out the muffler. Fit the muffler where you want it and slide the scrap tube right against the fender. Trace with a scribe, add a quarter inch or whatever all the way around, cut with snips.
     
  11. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Thanks Ben I'll work it that way I think I can cut a piece at angle and get it pretty close against the fender.
     
  12. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Getting really close to being done with the hot side. Wastegate flange is welded on. I need to run the dump tube and trim the fender to finish out the downpipe. The junk inside of the tube is solar flux I'll clean it up and port the inside tomorrow.

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  13. PaulC-turbo5.0

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2021
    brings back memories, I put my wastegate on the turbine housing as well. Not the most common place but I found it to be the best solution for my packaging.

    just an FYI. I control boost off of the spring and a 3lb spring gives me 10psi. its been very consistent and has worked well for me but something to watch for especially in the beginning. 10psi is where I wanted to end up but my plan was start lower and work up to that. im glad I didnt start with the 10lb spring.
     
  14. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Hot side is done. Ben I used your approach with a scrap piece and I think it turned out pretty good. On to the cold side next. I think I found a spot for the scavenge pump that will keep it lower than the drain.
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  15. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Cold side is mostly done. I need to drag my head roller out and do the ends. One 3/8" npt for the AIT.

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  16. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    I opened up the bumper to hopefully get some additional airflow across the heat exchangers. I ordered a universal fit k&n filter to squeeze in. I'm going to have to mount the scavenge pump above the drain just nowhere to stick it otherwise. I'm going to test the pump with a gallon of 10w30 at the installed height to see what the actual flow rate will be. IMG_20240421_151035716.jpg #ad
     
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  17. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    I've got the pump mounted it ended up being 9" from drain to pump inlet. Mocal said no need for a drain box or vent. Using #6 from pump outlet to fitting on the pan.

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  18. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Here's the results of the scavenge pump test. This is a Mocal 17-530SL pump. I used 5w30 STP oil .. it was in the back of the Spirit I bought. ~74*F in the shop. I ran 6 tests. It consistently pumped 4 quarts in 39 seconds and drew a maximum of 5.6 amps. Pics below of the setup. Pump is very quiet.
    To measure amp draw I used a fluke 97 dual channel scope with an amp clamp. My brother dug this out of the dumpster at work after watching them throw it away .. so they didn't have to calibrate it anymore. ISO 9000 is actually good for something ;-)
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  19. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Forgot battery voltage was 12.8 so I'd expect better than 2 gal/min at alternator voltage.
     
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  20. Wallace

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    Engine is out and on the stand. Going to give it a spray bomb rebuild and put the P heads on it.

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