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On3 kits, explorer fead

Discussion in 'Newbie and Basic Turbo Tech Forum' started by ummduh, Oct 1, 2020.

  1. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016
    Waste gate. Hope it's placed decent, not a lot of places that it fits.

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  2. B E N

    Nov 22, 2016
    Either header wrap like you said or cut a piece of exhaust tube a half inch larger down the middle, add 1/4" tabs for standoff: Heat shield.

    Wastegate should be alright, its better if it doesn't tee in to the main exhaust at a 90 if you can help it.

    Looks good, nice progress.
  3. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016
    Thanks i will keep both in mind.
  4. Disney Lincoln

    Feb 14, 2003
    WG placement looks good to me.
  5. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016
    Would #1 or #2 make more sense for the bellow? They say they don't want more than 1 degree misalignment, m thinking #1 makes more sense as far as expansion. Probably over thinking it.

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  6. bbi_turbos

    Dec 8, 2021
    My vote is 2, but weld a vband on one end of the bellow so its a 2 piece crossover, much easier to take on/off when in the car at the track etc.
    ummduh likes this.
  7. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016
    Hope to have power and fuel to it tomorrow, and be able to work out the problems. Then hope to have it running however basically Sunday.

    Big items left are turbo back exhaust and the intake tube. Not looking forward to trying to weld that saddle and iat bung on.

    Edit: I must have the engine way further back than usual, going to have to cut a slot out of the cowl access area to get the intake bolt in. I don't recall anyone else bringing this up. I don't plan on taking this out in bad rain anyways, not a big deal for now.

    And I had to remove the a/c drier, not fitting with the waste gate anymore. Maybe this winter I'll figure out how tk get a/c back in this thing.

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    Last edited: Jun 24, 2022
    Disney Lincoln and Russell like this.
  8. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016

    It runs! Got it running last night. Had a couple set backs.

    The fuel crossover lines on my fuel rail were broken under the sheathing and I didn't know it. I knew I should have just replaced them but I was too hopeful the 30 yr old rails were OK...

    So intake back off, replace the hoses. Start filling radiator with water, when it gets to the tstat it just starts pouring out. Initially it looked like it was coming out from the lower intake gaskets but luckily it was just the tstat. Not sure how I messed that up, I installed it while on the engine stand. Weird. New gasket, back at it.

    Next issue was no crank. Figured out I had to add a ground that the oe ecu used to supply. Fixed.

    My timing light doesn't like wasted spark.

    Transmission dipstick tube doesn't even come close to fitting. It should have. I think I have my engine set way, way back from most people. Lokar pets are expensive.. Jegs offers one similar for less than half, I'm going to try that.

    And I wired my crank vr sensor backwards. I didn't notice in the manual that they wire vr+ to sensor negative and sensor + to vr-. I was able to get a reading by changing the trigger to the opposite of what it was supposed to be. Falling edge instead of rising edge? Or vice versa. And wala! It started! Timing is off because of the crank sensor but shockingly it fired right up!

    I still got a good bit of work to do. Where I ran my starter cables is way in the way of the upper intake.
    My turbo back exhaust welding is UGLY. I tried flux core ss wire and my machine HATED it. Not enough power. Going to have to knock some of it down and clean it up. Also still have to do the waste gate into the exhaust.

    Transmission works on jack stands.

    Oh and I didn't realize it but my gm iat I had wasn't 3/8npt. It it m14x1.5. After not being able to find that tap anywhere in my city I just ordered the 3/8npt iat sensor instead.

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    Last edited: Jul 4, 2022
  9. Disney Lincoln

    Feb 14, 2003
    Awesome!!! Nice work on figuring out that CKP sensor wiring.
  10. Pro-SC

    Feb 8, 2014
    Nice Build you have going on!
    I was wondering about your fuel rail crossover line. Which hose did you use and clamps? I have to do the same thing and was looking for Dayco 80084, 5/16” I’d hose but it is hard to get at this time. How did you remove and replace the hose? Good luck with ac on that rig!
  11. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016

    I ended up with continental branded efi hose from autozone. I always go to autozone last, they were the only ones that had stock in my town this time. Advanced straight up said they haven't had any in months and can't even order it. I was getting a little worried.

    I just used regular efi style clamps.

    Putting it back on was easy ish.. It pushes on similar to push-lok hose if you've ever used it. Get a good grip with clean hands or a good rag, and give it good constant pressure. Back up a little bit from the end so it has some squish room.

    I looked it up and continental says it's "extended ethanol blends" safe... Which seems to infer e85 OK.

    I read another guide that said to abrade the hose left on the nipple off with a wire wheel. I happened to have a wire wheel on my grinder so I gave it a go and it worked amazing! Wore the hose right off without touching the barb. I just used a regular bristle style cup wheel. Not one of the hyper aggressive braided/knotted style.
  12. Pro-SC

    Feb 8, 2014
    Yes I know it is hard to find at this time,I also went with the continental hose and I did read that about the wire wheel, I will have to try that.
    ummduh likes this.
  13. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016
    Waste gate dump is DONE. Last real fabrication is done. It's welded and back on. I need to find a place to split the turbo back to make it easier to hang and whatnot but... That's it. I should be making a test drive this weekend!

    I don't think my trans controller is done right, but I put no time into looking at that aside from making sure the base settings where in and it was updated.

    Oh and from busting butt getting to this point (a friend in came over that specializes in "just get it done")... I didn't notice my boost controller laying on the header and melted it. Oops. I bought a 3 port Mac valve to hook up. And I also took the second 6lb spring out of the wg so it's only on a 6lb spring.

    On the vs racing blow off valve, it included a second spring in the box but there is one installed. What is it for? There's no mention on their website.

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    Disney Lincoln likes this.
  14. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016
    FYI my crossover uses 1/4" id hose. It's a sn95 rail.
  15. Pro-SC

    Feb 8, 2014
    I had heard a long time ago that the sn95 rails could flow more fuel than the fox ones, I got a 5/16”, that will suck if it’s the wrong size.
  16. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016
    Yea I heard that too. My explorer engine was returnless so I needed a rail with a return. Seemed like a no brainer.
  17. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016
    First fire up

    Tonight, got timing figured out... Fighting the flex fuel settings. Not sure what I'm doing wrong.

  18. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016
    Figured out my issue. The only two vacuum nipples on the intake that don't actually see vacuum are the ones I had everything important hooked up to. No MAP=NO FUN.

    Got that sorted out. It starts and runs... reasonably now!

    My alt is dead to the world, gotta replace that yet, and I may have a huge oil leak.. I can't really tell if it's new or old. This is getting fun now.

    Last edited: Jul 10, 2022
  19. Disney Lincoln

    Feb 14, 2003
    I ran into that on an Explorer intake also. Threw me for a minute.
  20. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2022
    20112011Cummins likes this.
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