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On3 kits, explorer fead

Discussion in 'Newbie and Basic Turbo Tech Forum' started by ummduh, Oct 1, 2020.

  1. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016


    It absolutely rips. Vids are easing into it. Only seeing 5psi.

    Still have some gremlins, something is stopping me at about 5500rpm... Gotta figure that out. Feels like it's hitting a fuel cut but I can't find anything. My fuel pressure sensor doesn't work so I can't monitor it yet. Lowdoller is sending a replacement.

    Drove it for an hour or so without any real problems. It's a damn riot.

    Thanks everyone for all the help, tips, suggestions, everything! Not sure I would have managed this without this site.
  2. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016

    Well that may have been short lived.

    Was driving home today and I thought the turbo started sounding different.. Not as smooth.

    Any saving this? Is it bad?

    I have a 0.078 restrictor in the feed line, there's a million opinions on what it should be, if any.
  3. bbi_turbos

    Dec 8, 2021
    Why the f do you have a restrictor in a journal bearing turbo? It needs all the oil it can get, restrictors are for the old school bb turbos that didn't have the built in restrictors that modern ones do.

    That doesn't look terrible, but it shouldn't be anywhere close to that after a few miles. Very easily rebuilt at this point.
  4. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016
    Because I've never done this before and the internet told me to do it.

    Like I said... Tons of opinions and most of them said.065 restrictor, a few said..080.

    This is a Chinese clone... Internet says it's a turbonetics t72 "out of the same plant". It's a rev9 t72/68.
  5. bbi_turbos

    Dec 8, 2021
    Like they say, live and learn, atleast you caught it early.

    Check in/ out play, if none, remove the restrictor and keep going. The side play isn't terrible, same as a "well used" turbo at this point.
    If the in/ out has play, rebuild or replace, once the thrust bearing area has severe wear is not long for the world.
    ummduh likes this.
  6. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016
    There is no in/out play that I could feel by hand. Just side to side.

    I have a -4 line directly from the oil filter remote mount... You're telling my to run that wide open beaver to this thing?
    Russell likes this.
  7. tbird

    Sep 1, 2004
    yep. Just like an engine bearing. Dont restrict it.
  8. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016

    Okie dokie! I'll drill it out tonight.

    Looks like bearing kits aren't a big deal to get for these... Potentially.
  9. bbi_turbos

    Dec 8, 2021
    Yep, open 'er up.

    Potentially, the Chinese don't always copy everything exact, probably to get around any potential patent problems. Regular bearing kit might work perfect, might not.

    For instance I bought a gt42 chra, suppose to be boreless wheel. It's not, has a nut on the end like normal, but retained the boreless hub in the back, so absolutely no other wheel out there will fit up without mixing and matching some bearing components.
    ummduh likes this.
  10. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016
    Yea more or less what I'd expect. Only thing that gives me hope is the same kit seems to fit damn near everything out there, just separated by big journal/small journal. Gives me a little hope. Worst case the whole turbo is still available for $300 or I can use the opportunity to try again. Lol. I ain't mad. I still have all 8 pistons and rods. Lost some header bolts, though.
  11. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016
    I drilled the adapter out to 3/16", which was the ID of the fitting (-4an).

    Drove it for about a half hour tonight and it seems pretty happy. Going to drive it more this weekend, and if it's still happy, I will probably start DD'ing it, for the summer.

    I do have 2 -10 fittings leaking that I just can't seem to fix, starting to piss me off as they're damn near impossible to access, of course.
    I even bought some AN face seals.. Seems to have slows it down but they're definitely still leaking. They're leaking out the back of the fitting where they tighten on the flare, not the hose side. Everything is hotrodfuelhose sourced PTFE braided hose.
  12. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016
    Now might be a good time to fix my u joint angles.

    64A4365C-C800-4016-8E69-5235D90836FC.jpeg #ad

    D88D5F5F-46D6-40B0-ACCF-AD8AAB1B534D.jpeg #ad

    D8802BBD-EC14-475B-A939-232AD0F2BC62.jpeg #ad

    The turbo has been behaving amazing since removing the restrictor. Actually the whole deal has been doing great.
    Downfall was “I just need to get past this dick blocking the left lane”…
    Pro-SC, 72gts, B E N and 1 other person like this.
  13. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016
    Well I put it back together and beat the ever living crap out of it for a couple more tanks. Still haven't had the balls to turn it up, 6psi and little tires is just a tire smoke machine.

    Passenger side header gasket is completely smoked, and I have some GIANT oil leaks I need to find.

    I'm also way undersized on injector, I'm already in the 80's for duty cycle at 6psi and 6300rpm. (11.8 afr gas scale). Also pushing the pump as far as calculating fuel flow, logs show high 200's lph and I have a 340. I don't know how much more pump I'm willing to put in a stock non sumped tank.

    I just put it back up on jack stands for winter. IMG_20221015_190159_01.jpg PXL_20221016_001008706.jpg

    I'm going to fix the drive line issues this winter, and buy real rolling stock. (I have a real hard on for the cobra-r's )

    Question is, does the ac drier need to vertical? I can fit it in at an angle. I'm still hell bent on being able to actually drive this.

    Aside from the absolutely terrible seats in this thing, I don't know that I've smiled more behind the wheel of anything I've ever been in. An absolute riot to blast around in. Ok, well my neighbor's 1000hp awd m5 competition was an insane ride.... But I digress.

    Oh, and I definitely need to c-notch the frame. I've bottomed out hard enough to pitch me sideways already. Oof for sure.
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2022
  14. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016
    So I'm mulling over what to do with the fuel system.

    I'm out of pump and injector.... I have a stealth 340 pump and gt500 62's, pump e85 (always seems to be e70).

    Because of the way my fuel pump module is, I can't put in the walbro high flow pumps. I could swap to an older hangar it looks like and go to the 525. Or I'm kind of considering dual staged 340's.

    The dual staged would give me headroom to pump up my base pressure and get more out of my injectors as a short term bandaid.

    But my tank also isn't sumped at all, and then I was considering the drop in dual stealth 340 module, with the foam sump it comes with. Yea, a lot more money, but I don't think I'd ever run out of fuel with this setup this way.

    The new old style hangar is $100, walbro 525 is $220ish, another 340 is 140ish...

    I'm also a little worried the single 525 is going to be too much for my stock injector rails at low loads.

    I like the idea of the module's sump.

    You guys haven't given me bad advice yet, what says yous?
  15. SpartanSV

    May 5, 2021
    How are you calculating flow? Are you just looking at duty cycle for the pump? I'm asking much more from a 340 on e85 and haven't run out yet.
  16. B E N

    Nov 22, 2016
    F90000285 "hellcat" pump can be found for around 130. You could easily run it up to 58 psi base pressure, 14psi boost (I think that's what the hellcats use).

    The gt500 62s on e70 should handle 600 at 58psi below 85%DC.

    Should still handle 550 at 38psi and 90%DC.

    I agree with the sentiment you should be able to get more out of your combo, not sure what your base pressure is, but that 340 ought to get you north of 600hp. What sizes are your lines and rails?
  17. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016
    I'm just looking at calculated fuel flow at max duty cycle(injector), which is in the low 80s right now. Calculated flow was high 200's, like 290 and some change, and I'm at 43 base pressure

    No my tune is not perfect yet, and I'm about 10% over fueling ATM, but that still doesn't leave shit for headroom.
  18. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016

    I'm -6 PTFE from the tank to the fuel rails. Using sn95 rails.

    I am only at standard 43psi base pressure though.

    I've been running out to 6300rpm. Probably not needed but I find it fun.
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2022
  19. ummduh

    Nov 19, 2016
    OK, here's a log snip.

    NOTES: don't trust the fuel pressure value, I think my VREF is being pulled too low, or I am having significant problems calibrating it.

    I was off base on my calc fuel flow, the highest I could find in logs was high 250's LPH, at 87% inj DC. I remembering being much more.

    My afr is about 15% rich.. I'm still chipping away at that, so there is some headroom there, but it looks to me like I'm at the edge of at least my injector.

    Well, shit. Usually when I'm looking at ethanol percentage, it was always 70ish. I started going back through my later logs and looking closer, I seem to be having issues either with the sensor or the wiring for it. It's all over the place and drops out completely pretty often, I just never noticed it. I should probably figure that out before I jump to any more assumptions.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 27, 2022
  20. B E N

    Nov 22, 2016
    Looking at the flow chart for the fuel pump at your demand I would be inclined to work towards bumping the pressure up to 58 psi. As long as the car will take it at idle (it should) you will move a little strain off the injectors. The injectors should function better at the higher pressure (better cone shape/atomization).

    aem-in-tank-fuel-pump-flow-current-vs-pressure-100_1200_1215_1220.jpg #ad
    ummduh likes this.
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