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1966 Plymouth Belvedere II twin turbo project

Discussion in 'MOPAR Turbo Tech Forum' started by Punk.Kaos, Sep 25, 2023.

  1. MrBelvedere

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
    Sure does seem like it's protruding really far into the floorboard.
     
  2. Punk.Kaos

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2023
    Yeah, I found a video of one in a '69 Roadrunner that shows really well how big of a cut it'll take with the stock bracket:

    upload_2024-2-14_15-43-30.png #ad


    Not sure how you cover that back up to look ok after you cut like that. There's no place to mount a shift boot in the back. But thats how Hurst designed it, so there has to be a solution.
     
  3. MrBelvedere

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
    You're gonna have to get creative that's for sure. Cardboard is your friend. I'd help if I could, I do a lot of sheet metal design work.
     
    Punk.Kaos likes this.
  4. Punk.Kaos

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2023
    Yeah, I'll be doing a lot of cardboard templates for sure. I'll figure something out!
     
  5. Punk.Kaos

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2023
    Still haven't sorted out the shifter issue, but I've gotten a lot of other stuff done... Got the rear end all put together, put in the differential, axles, rear brakes, and drive line making for the first time in at least 20 years this car has had a complete drivetrain in it. I also got the clutch pedals installed and the new hydraulic slave moc'd up. I have to get the actual connection to the clutch fork sorted still but its progress!

    upload_2024-2-20_10-10-28.png #ad


    I also got my exhaust headers mounted properly, they're VERY tight around the valve covers and I was having issues with interference with the covers when I tightened them down. I had ordered a set of Mr Gasket covers that Summit assured me were "ABSOLUTELY STOCK HEIGHT!". Of course they were not. They were tall covers like most of them, which wouldn't fit. After going through my parts stash I found a set of old Moroso covers that while not stock height, were only about 1/2 an inch taller so with a tiny bit of hammer clearancing fit ok. So I'll go with those for now.

    Next step is getting the turbos themselves back in and getting electrics, fuel, and cooling installed!
     
    TurboSnake281 and MrBelvedere like this.
  6. MrBelvedere

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
    Making some headway for sure! You ought to come on over to my place when you're done with that one and get my car going!

    You got a blow-off valve since you're now going manual?
     
  7. Punk.Kaos

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2023
    For the turbos? Yep, I've had a BOV since day one. I don't like running without one. And the sound is worth it :p

    I'm always down to help others wrench, especially a turbo Mopar. where're you at anyway? :p
     
  8. MrBelvedere

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
    I'm in NW Georgia
     
  9. Punk.Kaos

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2023
    Little bit of a commute from Portland then. I'm always down for remote commentary though!
     
  10. Russell

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2019
    In the picture it's not welded down, can you shift it back to cover the shifter? Or would it interfere with the seat?
     
  11. Punk.Kaos

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2023
    I thought about that, the problem is the bracket just doesn't physically fit through the hole. Its taller and longer than the hump is so even if I moved the hump back I'd have to cut the hump.

    I spent a good chunk of time researching it last night, and it APPEARS I should be able to mount it farther forward if I make up my own bracket, and might even be able to mount it to the stock bracket as the body of the shifter is very close to a Hurst Competition. The only issue will be if the shifter is still in a good position for my seat since its a really short shifter, and its hard to figure that out when there are no seats in the car currently.

    My seats showed up yesterday, so as soon as my brackets get here I'll mount them and then I can figure out the shifter.
     
  12. Punk.Kaos

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2023
    [​IMG]#ad


    Had a few minutes after work, and my new turbo adapters showed up so I went to put the turbos back on the engine.... And discovered that my passenger side exhaust header was 3 inches longer than the driver's side. So the turbo fit on the driver's side, but hit the core support on the passenger. Nothing to do but cut up my new exhaust headers... a quick cut and some welding later they're now the same length and both my turbos are installed!

    Because of the new headers they're a few inches farther forward from my last install so I've got to add a bit of piping to the charge pipes to get it back to the throttle body, but it all fits much nicer than before! The hood should fit properly now [​IMG]#ad
     
    62CometTurbo likes this.
  13. Punk.Kaos

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2023
    Attempt number two at a radiator came in, this one fits much better than the one that was supposed to be FOR a 66 B-Body. I started out mounting it on the stock side of the core support but I wasn't happy with how tight it was with the turbos, so front mounted it is! Off with the nose of the car, fab some brackets, cut and relocate some supports, and BOOM. Radiator installed.
    [​IMG][​IMG]#ad
     
    TurboSnake281 and MrBelvedere like this.
  14. MrBelvedere

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
    If I go the turbo route in mine I'm probably just gonna hack out the fenderwells and core support and fab up some rails.

    Good seeing your build coming along!
     
  15. Punk.Kaos

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2023
    I thought about cutting out the wells, but they're what supports the fenders and are part of the support for the shock towers. Not that it can't be done, but it seems a fair bit of work. We'll see what happens ultimately when I get to the exhaust. Last time I went out through the fenders because I didn't have room to do anything else. So far it LOOKS like I could get the pipes out the back on the passenger side, but I don't think it'll work on the drivers so I may just go out through the fenders again. I sorta like the look of the shorty fender exit exhaust too. Thats a later problem though :p
     
  16. MrBelvedere

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
    Absolutely! I think the main reasons I want to cut the wells out is to make running piping easier and also to help keep the engine bay cooler.
     
    Punk.Kaos likes this.
  17. KEVINS

    Joined:
    May 25, 2004
    I remember back in the day someone hole-sawed holes in the shock tower supports and they buckled, bent, got real outta shape..

    ks
     
    Punk.Kaos likes this.
  18. Punk.Kaos

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2023
    Yep, I've seen it personally on a friend's Duster. He cut the fender wells out for a drag car (And to help fit a 440 in there) and after a season or two the shock supports were bent all to hell. They're not built to fully support without the rest of the sheet metal there. There's solutions, I'm going to do a coilover conversion on the front of mine that includes support brackets to solve that.
     
  19. Punk.Kaos

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2023
    It'll certainly make running the piping easier! Our torsion bar front ends don't leave a lot of room for exhaust even when doing it stock!
     
  20. MrBelvedere

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
    Yeah, no way I'd hack out the fenderwells without adding in some j bars
     
    Punk.Kaos likes this.
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