It's completely stock with 103k on it. It needed suspension, electrical and exhaust all of that is mostly sorted.
Going to install a ms2 with an adapter board.
I'm thinking a single on the passenger side. Any thoughts on a good match for the stock 302? I have a gt4202 with a 1.01 t6 housing but not sure that would work. Looking for something fun to drive and some test and tune runs. #ad
#ad

 

@disneylincoln cool project, he'll have some input.

 

#ad
#ad
#ad
I had to trim the ends of the breakout board on the plug side to clear the case bottom. I also ended up milling off the pads on the case bottom to keep from binding the board.
What could I use to seal the edges of the board where I trimmed it.
Got Ls coil wiring/brackets at the junkyard already had the 582 coils.

#ad


#ad

 

Cool, love me some mark 7 action, like the 8’s to almost bought one instead of the 88 T bird.

 

Kickass project car. Keep us in the loop.

 

Could you get some rough measurements of how much you needed to trim the breakout? I'll update the design for future production runs.

 

Awesome. I removed about 75x100 mm .. 75 off the long side and 100 off the short.

 

Either I'm not understanding, or there was a problem with your measurements. The whole board is ~140x60.
Here's a test render with 9.5x31 removed.
#ad

 

Sorry I hadn't had my coffee yet. 7.5mm and 10.
At the plug end of the board the bottom part of the case at the corners.
#ad

 

Like this, or do I have it backwards? #ad

 

That's correct

 

I bought a 64bit trigger wheel. Machined .125" off the balancer. The brackets he offered aren't available anymore. ordered a hall effect from digi-key. I got the ms2 mounted in the glove box. Once I get the sensor going to start on the wiring conversion. #ad

 

Got the sensor brackets made. Sensor still hasn't shown up so I used a 1/2 bolt to mock it up. Alignment looks pretty good. I modified the existing timing bracket so I can verify timing. A little tricky to get it lined up but I think it will work. #ad

 

Contour fan assembly, soft start fan controller from a Mitsubishi and a dual temp switch off of a bmw. I milled a thermostat housing down until it met the top of the gasket. Most of the diagrams I found out this switch in the bottom radiator hose. Any idea if using the tstat location is a problem? I couldn't mill it far enough to get it to project into the coolant stream. This freed up a spare port on the MS. #ad
#ad
#ad
#ad
#ad

 

The sensor location should be fine . The sensor would be covered in coolant so it should be accurate .

 

I'm interested to learn more about the components you used for the fan setup. I have a fan controller here that looks like the one you have, with the one input, two outputs. I couldn't figure out how to wire it though. I've not heard about this BMW temp switch. Sounds like this will make the fans stand alone now?

 

Here's the diagram I'm using. Using the bmw switch makes it standalone. There are two switches with different temperature ranges I've got to test mine to see what I've got. I got the temp switch off of a 95' 525 .. on that car it's on the passenger side of the radiator behind the inside headlight. The diagram only shows one temp switch and high is manually actuated .. just add in the second circuit from the bmw switch.
#ad

 

Update on the bmw dual switch. The one I pulled from the junkyard only worked on one leg it came on at 195* .. the second leg bounced my meter around so I think it was bad. I ordered 61318361787 from Amazon for $16 .. total junk. The two legs worked sort of .. I ran the test twice. Leg 1 average on 177* off at 148*! Second leg just as bad on the off. Going to send the $16 junk back and spend the coin for the $40 facet switch. I'll provide the test results. hoping it's better .. kind of need that extra output. Pic of my lab setup lol. #ad

 

I've had good luck with this style switch triggering one or more standard ford style relays: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...CnssMrrBc0aivQv8-3Nc_mWGELK8nNFIaAjnPEALw_wcB

I weld a bung directly into the radiator tank, close to the water pump output hose inlet. You can also get a little pipe with a bung welded directly to it and put it in the output side of the water pump hose.

 

Thanks Ben.
I was originally going to weld a Bung in my radiator until I saw the tstat already had a blind port. Has your setup in the radiator worked well? I was a little worried the engine temp would be hard to control by not directly reading it.
I couldn't bring myself to pay for the Facet one. I ordered a Hella from ra for $20. If this is junk I'll abandon the all in one and get separate switches. Two switches would provide some redundancy in the event one fails.