Snagged this car sight unseen for $300, immediately began throwing spare and second hand parts at it. In a few months time, the car now has the following:

Motor/Transmission
- Bone stock 5.0 from an 88 Mustang (including cam)
- World Windsor Sr. Iron heads with Scorpion 1.6 roller rockers
- SCE 536086 head gaskets
- Chinese head studs
- Parker Funnel Web intake
- Ford Racing SFI balancer
- Autolite 23 plugs
- Taylor 409 Pro Race wires
- Ford Racing tall valve covers
- SVE 3 row aluminum radiator
- Gano coolant filter
- DCC fan controller
- Taurus electric fan
- SN95 130A 3G alternator
- 26 spline C4 transmission with TCI rmvb, Raybestos clutches, deep pan, and 3000 RPM off the shelf BTE converter
- Chinese plate style transmission cooler
- SCAT SFI 29.1 flexplate
- B&M Pro Stick shifter

Ignition & Fuel
- Holley HP ECU
- MSD 6530 6-AL 2 programmable ignition box
- Stock TFI distributor
- EFI Source 3 BAR MAP sensor
- MSD 8253 HVC-2 coil
- Aeromotive 13101 fuel pressure regulator
- Walbro 450 LPH in-tank pump with -8 feed and return

Turbo
- 7665 .96 A/R T4 Air Research turbo
- Twin VS Racing 44mm wastegates
- HKS Race Series blow off valve
- Chinese 4" Intercooler, 3” piping

Interior/Exterior
- WinBook TW801 tablet for gauge display
- Digital volt meter and USB chargers
- Taylor battery box in the trunk
- Front SN95 seats
- Racequip 5 point harnesses
- SN95 carpet
- Scott Rod satin black cowl cover
- Satin black aluminum strut less wing
- Cheapo Amazon LED headlights

Chassis
- S&W 8 pt. mild steel roll bar with swing out bars
- Upper and lower torque box reinforcements
- Wild Rides full length subframe connectors
- Moroso solid motor mounts
- Polyurethane transmission mount
- Polyurethane cross member bushings
- Polyurethane steering rack bushings

Suspension & Brakes
- eBay manual rack
- Team Z bump steer kit
- 90/10 Lakewood struts with 12-220 springs and caster camber plates
- 93 front spindles with slotted rotors and stainless brake hoses
- QA1 K-member
- QA1 A-arms
- 8.8 with Strange spool, 31 spline Strange axles, c-clip eliminators, and 3.55 gears
- Double adjustable upper control arms
- Wild Rides chromoly adjustable lower control arms
- UPR chromoly anti-roll bar
- Spherical 8.8 bushings
- QA1 single adjustable rear drag shocks
- Stock V8 rear springs with one coil cut
- B&M line lock

At this point, the car is sorted enough to go to the track. I am heading to Pacemakers in Mt. Vernon, Ohio this Friday to do some testing!

Enjoy!
Jon

#ad
#ad
#ad
#ad
#ad
#ad
#ad
#ad
#ad
#ad
View attachment 669990 #ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad

 

Cool, I was really hoping the chrome reverse wheels would stay, but I'm weird like that.

 

I regret painting them as well, maybe one day when I am bored and have nothing to do I'll restore their finish!

 

Replaced all my mechanical gauges, using eBay 100 psi pressure transducers and a Winbook TW801 from Microcenter. All in all, I am pleased! #ad
#ad


#ad


#ad

 

Upgraded from my cheapo MBC as well. GFB G-Force II - 6 presets, scramble, overboost protection, and closed loop correction for under $300.
#ad


#ad

 

i am kinda interested in your gauge set up you have there. How are the transducers getting the signal to the tablet? You have anything about this on here, would be an interesting read.

 

I am using a Holley HP. The eBay transducers are simply a substitute for the $100 Holley sensors, and the tablet in lieu of a Holley dash. May not be as large or functional as the Holley set up, but savings is close to $1k.

 

I'm 26 and lost with all the technology. I need to get with the times. Cool build! If you have links or info to broaden my knowledge would you please post them or pm me. I understand easily once sent in the right direction

 

Initially I wanted to go with FiTech's direct port system, however, they continued to push back the product release and focused on their ever popular TBI system. I didn't care to wait and went with the Holley HP given its popularity, relatively low price point, and intuitiveness.

 

Operational with the new EBC and tablet! eBay sensors are spot on as well.

Question for setting idle with a 4 barrel style throttle body, do you crack just the primary bores or the secondary as well? Does it matter?

#ad
#ad
#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad

 

Potentially screwed here...cold idle oil pressure is 40 psi, warm at idle is right around 10 psi, cruising/WOT is 25 psi. Pull and fix the issue or run it till self destruction and build the 351 sitting in the corner?

 

After talking to the man himself, Tony Reiners, I am going to run her till something unsavory happens! Better start the 351w build!

 

Take the carb off, flip it upside down, find the transfer slots on the primaries, adjust the butterflies to make the visible part of the transfer slot a square. Reinstall carb, set idle with rear butterflies, readjust mixture, do burnouts.

 

Well shit, with Tony in your corner as long as you take his advice you should be rockin'. And if you're running e-85 with his magic timing curve the sky is the limit!

 

Hooked up my $10 Amazon volt meter and USB chargers. Heading out to Pacemakers for the first time tomorrow evening!
#ad

#ad


#ad


#ad

 

that sounds like a soft oil pressure relief spring ,,time for a bit of washer stacking ?

 

This is badass. hope it runs like stink.

 

I was thinking bearings are shot given its a mystery motor that was basically free.

 

Made it to the track! First hit off the trailer with 10 psi leaving off the foot brake and 2 step with just over 2 psi. Next outing I plan on upping total boost to 15 psi, increasing the retard and RPM on the 2 step with hopes of making 5-6 psi, and hooking up my ARB. The ultimate goal with the current setup is a low 6 second car.
#ad
#ad


#ad


#ad

 

Picked up Carl Munroe's powerglide handbook; never cracked a transmission open before but I am excited to start building one for my coming 351w setup.
#ad


#ad