I wanted to share my build on a '30 Ford Roadster. It is an all steel body that was bought about 15 years ago but the owner passed away and I got the roadster from my cousin. If it had been an original Model A I would not have rodded it but I wanted to build one more Model A with a flathead.

#ad


This is as bought.

#ad


#ad


Setting on '32 frame rails to see where to cut the frame to fit the body.

#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


I had to reinforce the frame where the oil return line and oil supply line for the turbos are to be as the next picture shows.

#ad


#ad


This is the setup for drilling the block for the fuel injectors. Using a shop vac to help keep it half way clean.

#ad


#ad


Using phenolic blocks to mount the fuel injectors and fuel rails in.
#ad


The phenolic blocks are held in with allen head bolts that are under the bolts that hold the intake manifold on.

#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


Machining the phenolic block for the fuel injectors and fuel rail to fit into. The injectors are side load injectors from a early '80's Nissan Maxima V6. the rails were cut and welded back together to fit the block. The side load injectors takes up less room as there is not enough room in the valve chamber to fit regular fuel injectors in.

#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


This is how much the block had to be opened up to match the intake manifold.

#ad


After drilling the injector holes I got to wondering what was where I drilled the holes. I had a old 8ba engine that was wasted so cut it up and there is a water passage that I just missed. I could have ruined a good block by not checking, I dodged a bullet there.

#ad


Cleaned the block good so the epoxy would stick and the slick smooth surface was a good surface for the O rings to seat on.

#ad


#ad


#ad


This cut out is for the fuel injector wires.

#ad


#ad


I drilled and tapped a hole for the oil to exit the engine and then goes through two oil filters for no restrictions to the oil flow plus cooling of the oil. the original oil passage was tapped and plugged so the oil has to go through the filters.

#ad


#ad


The oil exits the bottom hole and back into the engine through top hole. The cross is one outlet for oil pressure and two outlets for the turbos oiling.

#ad


I'm using four Ford carburetors that has the venturi machined out and a straight piece of tubing pressed in.

#ad


The valve chamber gets crowded. The fuel goes in at the back of the engine where the fuel pump was located and what fuel in not used goes out the left front of engine thru an adjustable regulator then back to a cooler mounted to the frame rail to cool the fuel then back to fuel tank.

#ad


Started making the exhaust headers to the turbos. The turbos are from a 2014 Ford F150 ecoboost V6 with very low mileage. They worked out great and are mirrored of each other.

#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


The headers were sent out for coating.

#ad


The choke shaft holes were filled , drilled and tapped to hold the turbo carb hat on and its all O ringed.

#ad


#ad


#ad


Oil returns for the turbos.

#ad


Showing pipe that fuel goes through to the fuel rails.

#ad


#ad


The box in front of turbo is a water to air intercooler. #ad



#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad



Using the old gas filler hole for filling the remote brake master cylinder.

#ad


Showing the Electromotive TEC3r to control the fuel injection and ignition and four coils for spark to the plugs. #ad


#ad
#ad


Showing the crank trigger. The old distributer has been gutted and set up with a sensor for letting the computer know when #1 cylinder is coming up so the computer can fire the fuel injectors in full sequential mode.

#ad


#ad



The turbos has their own radiator/water pump and fan mounted in the roadster trunk floor. The only thing the engine radiator has to cool is the engine. The Ford AOD transmission has its on coolers and fans for cooling.

#ad


The engine has a Scat crankshaft and H beam connecting rods with Ross pistons. It has a Snyder Cam ground for this build and Manley ProFlow SS valves. The main bearing caps are billet. The Ford AOD transmission has a manual valve body with a Dutchman Ford 9" rear end.
#ad


#ad


#ad


The oil pan has a built in windage tray that came in the Mercury's '49 - '51 or '52 The oil pickup screen has a plate the covers the hole in the tray.

#ad


The 4x2 intake manifold is from the 59a engine and doesn't have the left front oil fume draft tube so I modified the intake to mate a new pcv hole to the 8ba engine draft pipe from the oil pan.

#ad


I installed a oil catch can that the pcv fumes go through. It has two one way check valves, under no boost it sucks fumes back into the intake manifold, under boost the check valve closes and the other check valve opens sucking fumes into turbos and then into the air stream into intake manifold.

#ad


On the steering column drop it has two potentiometers one to add or pull fuel and the other to add or substract timing while driving.

#ad


I made a adapter to mount a TPS sensor in the back carburetor where the old accelerator pump was located. The same linkage is used and it goes from 0-5 Volts.

#ad


The sensor is from a '80's Buick.

#ad


This shows the adjustment screw and two small set screws to lock it in place.

#ad

 

Thank you, appreciated.

 

Excellent build thread!!! Good job!

 

Thank you Disney...

 

There is about 5,000 miles on the roadster now but winter and roadsters don't always play nice with each other. #ad


The 19 gallon fuel tank is mounted in the trunk but there is a 16 gauge bulkhead behind the seat with square tubing for support.
#ad


I will have to say it is fun to drive and at 70 mph it is about 2000 rpm and there is no casual talking with the wind noise and no door glass.

 

Wow - super cool!!!

 

Thank you 64nailhead.

 

Very cool! A flat head powered car is on the dream list.

 

Thank you Russell, they are cute motors but not a beast for power.

 

Badass build!

Loved the work with the injectors, very clean.

 

Thank you MCA, appreciated.

 

I'm using all the carburetors but using them as 8 throttle plates and they all work in sync. That created a problem for the AOD transmission. The shifting is controlled by cable hooked to the throttle linkage and engine rpm for the transmission fluid pressure. With 8 throttle plates opening at once the linkage has to move very little for the rpm to be ready for the transmission to shift which is good but the cable to the transmission has moved very little so it is not ready to shift. I fussed with it a couple of days and then went to a manual valve body in the AOD and problem solved, the transmission lockup is controlled with a toggle switch and led light when locked up. It's easy to forget sometimes hence the led light. #ad

 

This is a awesome project!

 

Thank you Svtgiles..

 

This is easily the coolest build I've ever seen in all my years on these forums. Absolutely love it. I'm biased, of course, because I am a massive fan of the Ford Flathead V-8.

 

Thank you so much TurboComet, appreciated

 

Very cool build. I use a latching relay for my lockup. A momentary switch engages it, brake pedal disengages it.

 

There is four coils mounted inside on the firewall. Every revolution of the engine the coils fire instead of every other revolution. It is called wasted spark which means the spark plugs fire on the exhaust stroke also which is wasted but saves from having four more coils.

#ad

 

Thank you Mnlx, that's a great idea, I will look into converting mine.