Well, the end of one project spawns a new chapter in another one of my project cars!

Say hi to Greanbean.
https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/b...llenge/1278969-the-98gt-4pointsix-to-4sixzero

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It's green and it's from the jellybean years of Ford styling, so I felt the name fit. Greanbean is a 1998 GT that I picked up in Fort Worth for 800 bucks. It is a manual trans car and the 4.6 was toast. The engine froze and busted the block near the water pump. Giant crack.

The plan for it is to build the 460 Mustang Ford should have built in 1998. Well, with some performance tweaks of course. Haha.

The plan is to basically pull the 4.6L out and slip the 460 in it's place using all the 4.6L accessories, ignition and EEC-V. This may change a little seeing that Diyautotune just introduced their PnP MS3's for 96-98 Mustangs. Sounds like a good match for the car and for me. The trans is an E4OD (yep a big girl) with a Bauman controller, looser converter and a Punisher valve body.

The 460 is basically stock, F3 efi heads, flat top KB pistons, Price Motorsport intake adapters, Edelbrock Torker 2 intake converted to efi by Pro-M, a Lunati Voodoo hydraulic flat tappet cam and a serpentine front drive that I built to mimick the stock 4.6L engine.

Originally, I hoped to put a centrifugal supercharger on it in the stockish mod motor location, but the lack of room up front nixed that idea. (I even had to remote mount the water pump so I could retain the stock cooling stack.) So I resolved to keeping it NA and moved on with the project. But, now that the HT60 and stuff is just sitting there on the table, I am going to try to use it on this car. Initial thought is it will be mounted on the passenger side and will utilize the spacious fenderwell to aid with hot side piping. Those inner fenders are huge. The Hooker long tubes will come out and I will slip the stock efi460 manifolds back in. I feel like the HT60 is probably a better match for a 460 than it was a 552. Boost will be kept low, but I feel like 600 hp should be easy peasy and have cruise and ac. I guess I am getting old. Haha.

Chassis-wise, it has a AJE tubular K with stock control arms and lowering springs up front and lowering springs in the rear. The fronts may need to be swapped because it is really really low. The 8.8 currently has 2.73 gears which will likely be swapped to 3.55 or 3.73's.

This car is kind of my do-over for the 83GT. Keeping all the creature comforts and stuff that I discarded when I built it.

So that's where I am right now with it. Exploring space and pipe routing to make it all fit and work.


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Pic of where I think the turbo will fit and of the huge inner fenders.

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It's crowded up front and I even moved the engine back 3/4" from where the AJE mounts positioned it.

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Quick work!

 

Well.... not really. I started on this car in September of 2020. I fiddle with it on and off when I am not working on the F100, the 83GT or Judd's '69 Galaxie. Haha. Thankfully the truck is moving on, 83GT is working really good and Judd got to make some drag strip passes in the Galaxie just before he left for Basic Cadet Training at USAFA.

On a side note: Judd bought the Galaxie in December for $1300, rebuilt front suspension, brakes, pulled the blown up 390, built a 460, installed a shift kit in an old C6, installed 4.10 rear gears, installed a shifter, line-lock, brake booster, master cylinder, gauges, tach, swapped in the 460 and put new wheels and tires on it. Then we took it to the track. We had issues with carb and ignition, but you could not wipe the smile off his face. He did 98% of the work and did a lot of it with his friends. That car was last on the road in 2002. One year before he was born. Haha. Good stuff.

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It's huge, but I'm kinda jealous of it. haha.

 

If cutting out the fender apron doesn't give enough room I would consider cutting the frame rail between the strut tower and the core support. And replacing it with a tube. The tube could dip down to also act at the turbo support?

 

I started trimming a little. IF I have to do anything to that frame rail, I want to keep it minimal. Right now it looks like either it or the upper fender support inside might need a notch.

 

It's hard to know where to stop. The tube front end kits open up a ton of room. I don't have any room to talk. I didn't cut anything. Thought was someone might want to put it back to stock some day. But in reality it's just a 4cyl auto car.

 

Well this thing isn't anything special so I have no problems cutting stuff up. I want to keep it to a minimum so it doesn't look like a 4th grader built it.

These are the stock efi 460 manifolds. My hope is that I can flip them side to side where they dump forward. This would simplify the exhaust routing significantly. I am 99% sure the passenger side will work fine. The driver's side will be the deciding factor as the power steering pump, water pump and oil filter are all in that general area. Another option is to use 2 driver's side manifolds and loop one pipe under the engine/tans bellhousing and then merge the two together then up to the turbo.

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How are you getting the cam signal? Are you running an external reluctor ring for the crank position?

 

The crank signal uses a 4.6L 36-1 wheel mated to the BBF spacer. Then I made a mount for the sensor.
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The cam signal was supposed to be from a cam position sensor I put together from 2 different sensors. One from a 4.2L v6 and one from a 5.0L Explorer. I say "supposed" because I used the wrong Explorer sensor. Some years came with a 2 wire sensor and other years a 3. I goofed and started with a 3. No biggie though. The cam signal is only used for sequential injection. If no cam signal is present, the EEC-V defaults to batch fire. The EEC guys said I probably would not even notice a difference.
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I did a little more rough trimming. I like it so far.

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Looks good intercooler?

 

I'll cross that bridge later. The 83GT works pretty good without one and this thing won't see big boost so I'm not worried about it just yet.

 

Low boost and a good tune I bet you can get away with one one.

 

Very cool build! Neat to see the 460 next to the 4.6, showing just how bulky they really are.

 

Yeah. I'll put those pics up here too. For a small displacement engine, they sure are huge. 460 is just little longer.

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Headers. Wow the headers were hard to get off. More specifically the passenger side was really hard to get off. The bolts were super tight and I used some Allen head bolts and they were super hard to access to loosen. Then, the header didn't want to come out of the car. I removed the two slip joint tubes but it was still stuck and required a hammer to get it out. Haha. The driver's side was a bit easier. I took off the valve cover to give me more working room. I got the bolts out fairly easy, then crawled under, moved the steering shaft and the header darn near fell out and almost hit me in the face. Cars are stupid.

All right. It looks like flipping the manifolds left to right is going to work but it's not going to be a quickie bolt-on like I had hoped. I had to trim the coil/ps reservoir bracket just a little bit and I will have to relocate my electric water pump.

Driver's side: I cut down the rearmost bolt boss on the manifold to provide additional clearance for the steering shaft. I think the oil filter will even fit fine. The tubing will definitely need to be wrapped because it will pass by the back of the ps pump and plenty of wiring looms. The real driver's side manifold was a no go. The pipe flange was trying to occupy the same space as the steering shaft.

Passenger side: at first glance it looks like this side is going to bolt right on no problem. But, a closer look reveals there is definitely a problem. The aje engine mount interferes with the pipe flange on this side preventing the manifold from seating flat. I considered using a header flange as a spacer to move the manifold away from the head and create some more space, but I think a better course of action would be to modify the engine mount and never think about it again. Captaingriffin had a similar problem and tried the header flange spacer deal on his Comet with marginal success. The mount is easy to get to right now and I think I can come up with a solution that will clear everything and work well. I would rather do that, than try to shim out the manifold or do something goofy.

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I took the motor mount out, bolted the manifold back on and started trimming the mount to clear the exhaust manifold. Once I got it where it would slip right in, I took a chunk of curved metal (an old alternator adjustment mount) and made a piece that curves under the manifold and attaches to the block plate. I need to add a small gusset and I will be happy with it. It looks like it is going to work fine.

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This looks like the best kind of build, simple and fun.

Subbing.