You should be able to use the speed control buttons for paddle shift with the Quick 4, I did.

 

I think Lokar makes a shifter with paddles on it but I figured I would attatch them behind the wheel on the column so they don't move with the wheel since mine is removable.

 

While I was waiting for the air compressor to catch up while working on the 83GT's header adapters, I started pulling the E4OD out of Greenbean. I really didn't expect to have it out, but here we are. Haha.

It wasn't the easiest to get loose because the middle bellhousing bolts were completely hidden up in there.

I might have tried to put the 4r70 in but the 4r's converter pattern is the 10.5" and the E4OD's flexplate has the 11.5" pattern.

I'll figure it out.

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Well, I figured it out. Evidently no one makes a BBF flexplate with the 10.5" pattern. So I did what any self respecting hot rodder does, I drilled a brand new flexplate with the 10.5" pattern.

This flexplate has 2 GM three bolt patterns and the large Ford 4 bolt already so one more pattern shouldn't be a big deal. It really turned out good. I picked this particular one because it has a larger flat area and would accommodate the 10.5 pattern nicely.

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Well, that is an unexpected setback. I never thought the flexplate bolts would interfere with the converter. A 460 has a much larger bolt circle than a 4.6L so the bolts hit the raised section of the converter.

I put the transmission all up in there and it just wasn't pulling together like it should. I really really really did not want to pull the transmission back out, but I did and the problem was quickly obvious.

Not sure how I'm going to overcome this setback just yet, but I am looking at flexplate bolts with heads that are not as thick. These are pretty tall with the weirdo castles. I'm going to do some measuring tomorrow and see just how much room I have.

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I've pulled apart cars that have had the heads of flexplate bolts ground down thinner.

 

QuickTime has an adapter bell kit that will work if your 4r is from a small block or v6 application
JW has a bell also, but neither of these options are cheap.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jpt-92454-aod
Looks like guys have been trying to do this for quite a while but have not seen anything about how you are trying to do, hope you can do it on the cheap but you might be out of luck. Go with a big boy manual!

 

I am using the Quicktime bell. Not a cheap part! Ooof. It's nice, but it comes with ZERO instructions, so you just have to figure it all out for yourself. If I was using a non-lockup converter, this would likely not be a problem as I think the raised section is where the lockup clutch lies.

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extra block plate and washers on the converter studs?

 

I forgot that you had done that. I have seen you post on truck forums before so maybe you have read this but this guy seems to have a solution.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1490043-4r70w-swap-3.html

 

Thanks! I'll check it out.

I picked up some flexplate bolts that are not only thinner, but the heads are smaller in diameter. (SB Chevy bolts) If my measuring is correct, I have about 1/8" of interference (front-rear) with the stock bolts, so I don't have a whole lot I need to lose.

The heads of the stock bolts are flush with the flexplate offset.
The pads on the converter are 1/8" below the surface of the converter "bulge".

So if I can lose 1/8" with the combo of bolt heads and maybe a grade 8 washer on the pads, I should be good.

 

Well the 4r70w is in. I still had to use the angle grinder to make them even thinner. Then I chucked them up in the drill press and hit the edges with a flapper wheel to round off the corners. I also put one hardened washer on each converter stud.

I wiggled the trans up into place and it seems to fit ok, so I guess I'll cross my fingers and hope for the best.

Oh yeah, loudest noises in the world:
1. Atomic detonation
2. Volcanic eruption
3. Flexplate falling off and landing on the shop floor.

Oof.

A trick I learned a while back was to put tie down straps under the trans (f&r) so if it were to slip off the jack it won't fall on the floor.

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Sometimes things just fall in place. Yesterday I monkeyed with a stock transmission crossmember trying to make it work. After cutting and offsetting it to the rear 3/4", it sorta fit, but I was not happy with it.

Today I pulled out the crossmember I made for the E4OD just to give it a looky. I was blown away to discover the subframe already had holes for the brackets in the right place and the height in the chassis was perfect. Bolt it in, done. That neeeevvvvver happens.

I read in the forum post linked above where a guy had trouble with his 4R70w swap because the converter snout was too short to properly index into the crank. I took some measurements and I think I am going to be in the same boat. Fortunately, there is a fix in the form of a bushing that fits in the larger bore intended for a manual transmission pilot bearing. Sooo, that means it has to come out again.....

Pics: 4R snout length, E4 snout length. Rough measurements, but you get the idea.

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Transmission is back out. I took some careful measurements did some maths and concluded the snout only "engaged" the crank by 1/16". I put engaged in quotes because the snout on the converter has a chamfer that's bigger than 1/16". So the converter really wasn't actually touching the crankshaft at all.

My bronze bushing material (you didn't really think I was going to pay $50+ for a little bushing did you? ) will be here tomorrow. It will need a little "machining" on the OD to fit in the crank just right. Like around 0.025". Crank bore is 1.85", bushing material is 1.875". I have 4" of material to work with, so I have plenty of chances if I screw up. Haha.

 

When you are working on your son's '95 SN95 and realize the oil pressure sending unit socket it too long to fit.... You chop a 1/2" out it with the bandsaw and tack it back together. Haha.

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4R70w install, day 5627. Haha.

Man I love it when things go as planned. I picked up this 4" chunk of bronze bushing material and made a converter pilot bushing today. The outside diameter was a little big, but I rigged up a way to mount it in the drill press and I used a strip of a belt sanding belt to cut it down to the exact diameter I wanted. Then I marked the thickness it needed to be and cut it with the portaband. I cleaned it up on the belt sander and hand sanded the outer edges and inner diameter until it fit like I wanted.

Then it was just a matter of putting the transmission back in. It fits great now and I have peace of mind knowing that the snout of the converter is supported and centered like it should be.

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Is that the difference between a big block and a small block ford? Great work!

 

Thanks! I suppose that is the diff. Idk much about sbf converters, but I assume they are pretty much the same as a mod motor converter

 

I weighed the E4OD today. Lighter than I expected. I thought it would be 270-290ish. It's only about 40 pounds heavier than the 4R70w. Both were weighed with the converter.

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Battery box and wiring is all finished. I only hit my head on the trunk latch 6489.7 times. You'd think I would learn. Nope.

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